You've been spending money at Richer Sounds, again, haven't you!
AV-Amp - Inputs :
Audio:
I'd use a TOS optical link from the Sky+ to the 540R (I also have one of those, and a Sky+ box) - Video 1 TOS input.
Also, TOS optical link from the DVD89 to the 540R (pretty sure the DVD89 will have this) - DVD TOS input.
Video:
Sky+ via SCART RGB to a RBGYUV (component) converter (around £60 - CPC or Maplin), then the output of that to the component input for Video 1 on the 540R.
DVD89 component video out straight to the 540R's DVD component video input.
AV-Amp - Outputs :
Audio - obviously straight to the surround sound speakers.
Video - switched component output to the Samsung (assuming - I expect this - that it has component video input).
Very similar setup to how I drive a projector, very successfully.
Depends on what connectorsa that lot has fitter really.
formatting link
do a range of flat scart leads with all wires individually screened that are quite nice to work with (fold flat round corners etc), available in lengths down to 30cm, and are also reasonably priced (i.e. well under a fiver each)
Re: optical cable - Yes, or go to a computer show and pick one up for £3.50. Ignore the "good quality leads are vital" part of the Richer Sounds sales ploy on their £20 cable. It's a digital transmission system
- so long as the cheaper cables work well enough then there's very little to justify the more expensive cable (and yes, I also bought a £20 Cambridge Audio cable from Richer Sounds when I first started).
You mention HDMI?, well, the one thing that doesn't have this is the AV-Amp, so you'd be looking at separate video and audio switching - fine if you can handle this, and you'd spare the £60 RGBYUV converter, provided that you have two HMDI inputs on the TV. You'd need to select the input according to what you're watching, then do the same on the AV-amp. Quality is questionable compared to component drive - some say its better, some don't. Provided you've not got a long distance between the two sources and your TV then this should work well. Longer distances and the price of HDMI leads (and availability) tends to make this a difficult and costly option. I'm not sure what's available in the way of HDMI switchers, and you've bought the wrong AV-amp if you want video and audio switching, but this route can be expensive.
At the end of the day - provided the DVD/SKY+ box are close to the TV and you're not bothered about having to switch both audio and digital channels then HDMI may be the easier solution - although you still need two TOS leads to the AV-amp.
How far away is it?, as it's an active subwoofer it's not drawing significant current from the AV-Amp, I'm suprised nothing was supplied with it. Question is - what flavour of snake-oil do you prefer? Personally, I'd settle for some bog standard 32/0.20, 42/0.20 or 79/0.02 speaker cable ("figure-8 bell-wire"), although the audiophiles would probably "disagree". Richer Sounds would also be interested in the contents of your wallet on this subject.
Optical leads from around £3 upwards (many with 'gold plating' at the £7/8 mark)
Search for 'optical lead' on their opening page
CPC have a massive range of audio/video connection leads at sensible prices.
If using SCART leads, I would recommend the fully wired screen flat ribbon cable type they sell from around £2 to £8
CPC also do HDMI leads from around £7
CPC prices are Ex VAT - free postage on orders of £35. CPC accept orders from anyone if the payment is by credit/debit card at the time of placing the order.
Don't overlook the often recommended snake oil supplier :)
0.5m fully wired SCART to SCART - a snip at only £123 - or only £187 for the 1m version.
Depends on the sub. Most will take a line level input via a phono connector. Hence any reasonably well screened phono to phono lead will usually do it (no stereo information down there, so only one cable required). Some like the REL boxes will also have the option of being driven from a high level amplified signal destined for a speaker. These usually terminate in an XLR on the sub and you would need either spade or 4mm binding post connectors to piggyback a feed from a speaker output.
The RGBYUV converter - sounds about right, I actually went for a different box, also from CPC, which I don't seem to be able to find online right now. The Keene one has a good reputation, though. Maplin also sell one if that's more convenient (hey, I live in Preston so CPC is only 10 minutes away).
"Switched component output" - I was referring to the switching capability of the AV-Amp (540R) - Basically, there's 2 component inputs
- Video-1 and DVD, and 1 component out - by putting the audio and component outputs from both sources (DVD and Sky+ via RGBYUV) then the AV Amp, when selecting audio source, will also select video source, and switch / route the video signal from either box to the TV. Therefore, your "Input Select" on the 540R remote selects completely the video/audio source.
No switched cable required.
With my setup - as stated above - use the AV-Amp to select (both video and audio) whether DVD or Sky+ goes to speakers / display device.
Re. links to TV - don't see HDMI input, also - Sky+ - HDMI output (never checked - always gone component) - wondering what in your system is actually HDMI.
The tv definatly has HDMI, so does the DVD89 player.
tv also has componant input to..heres a better link to the specs..
formatting link
see much point to use the HDMI if componant is just as good, and means i can use the 540R to switch from sky to dvd.
why use an optical link from the dvd89? this will bypass the dac on the dvd89 wont it? why is this a good thing to do? is 540R's dac better?
re sky+....if i upgrade to Sky HD, which looks like it has componat input as well as HDMI...am i best saving my money and doing it now, rather than splashing out £70 on a SCART RGB to Componant converter? I take it Sky+ doesnt have componat output hench the convertor? for now (until i get SKY HD) am i better of scarting it?
You could certainly use the analogue output from the DVD - the 540R handles different sources on different channels fine. I suppose I'm mirroring my own setup too much - my choice of optical output from the DVD was because I use an Xbox-360 - so optical supported the 360's 5.1 surround sound [note: soon to be replaced by a HTPC]. Regarding which is better?, who knows - won't Cambridge-Audio be likely to use the same DAC on their DVD players as their AV-Amps?, experiment [half the fun of what must be a £2k investment), but I'd be tempted to spend a little more on analogue interconnects than on a digital/optical link.
Yes, SkyHD has Component *OUTPUT* and yes it'll save you the £70 for the converter (although you'll pay more for the box, and the extra £10/month ontop of Sky+ subscription). I've personally been considering this in the run up to SkyHD but ultimately decided to hold off until there's some real HD content - plus, Sky are well known to limit the bandwidth on their services - I wanted to see how the service pans out. Personally I think I'll be sticking to DVD sources for HD content - but we'll see - early days.
Re: Sky+ and HDMI output - of course then all you need is a new AV-Amp that provides HDMI switching - a friendly bank manager will help you out there, or use the separate controls on the TV / AV-Amp to separately control audio / video as previously discussed.
If you want to "SCART it" then by all means - but with the same caveat (audio/video switching).
The solution I originally presented is what is the best solution for me., and was formulated over several weeks after buying the kit.
The setup that you have is very similar (except for the display device), but you need to decide yourself the balance of cost over the practicality of the solution. Maybe play with the kit as it arrives and make your mind up that way - at the end of the day it's you that the kit has to satisfy.
Mike, did you say you have a Azure 540r? Do you have any problems with loose optical connections? both my DVD and sky toslinks are loose and are causing audio dropouts....have i a problem with my amp?/...or the wrong cables?
Strange, yes I have a 540R, and no, all optical cables are as tight as necessary to retain them comfortably. Wrong cables?, I thought they were all pretty standard nowadays - if they have the same keying (kinda a D shape, from memory), then they should be okay
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