Hi all. I used jump leads to start up a dead battery and I'm trying to charge the battery with the engine idling in p reg rover 214. When I try to give it a few more revs to speed up the process the revs stay up...gave the gas pedal a touch and it zoomed over
3000 and stayed there. That can't be normal?Does something need looking at?
Thanks.
Arthur PS I did post this question to uk.cars.maintainance but they prefer smart aleck remarks to answering questions.
It could be an EMU which has detected a flat battery, but I don't know if they were that inteligent that long ago. OTOH, an alternator doesn't need anything like engine at 3000 RPM to generate full output; they can produce nearly full output at idle (unlike an old dynamo), so the 3000 RPM would not seem likely for that reason.
So might be an unrelated fault, or maybe you managed to momentarily disconnect the supply to the EMU during the coupling up, and it lost it's learned settings for the engine, and has dropped back into a safe mode until it relearns the engine characteristics. I had a P reg Fiesta which did this, and engine was noticably rough for the next 10 miles or so, until the EMU relearned its characteristics. (The handbook warned of this if the EMU ever lost the battery supply.)
If you are referring to the answer by Mr Cheerful, then you are mistaken. He is probably the most helpful and one of the best informed people there.
Andy C
It would run a little rough and maybe tick over a little faster, but not at 3000rpm - that would make it undriveable. I wonder if the idle valve has stuck open, but 3000rpm is way beyond the control range of most idle valves. Another possibility is that the throttle position sensor has gone o/c. I suppose you have checked the accelerator peddle is at its usual height - if not check the throttle cable is properly in its sockets at both ends/ not kinked.
Arthur 51,
The reply that you had over on uk.cars.maintainance from Mr Cheerful:
"if the battery has been completely flat then the car may need to re-learn its settings, it will only do this once it has been fully hot and driven for a while, so I wouldn't touch anything yet."
Is a perfectly feasible answer from a very knowledgeable bloke - but as normal, you have failed to heed some very good advice.
Falco
faulty sticking accelerator cable is the most common cause
NT
My original post to this group was made before Mr Cherful replied to my post on ek.rec.cars... I'm sorry to tar everyone on that group with the same brush but most of the time I've asked questions on that group I get the impression they much prefer sharing their knowledge with people who ask questions on upmarket or prestigious cars...i.e. rather than answer questions on something like my old car they prefer to pick up on some naive terminology or phrase I might use in order to show other group regulars that they are 'one of the lads' or something like that.
I'll take your word on what you say of Mr Cheerful as I only use car groups on rare occasions and so unable to identify the upstanding members as you obviously can. Besides, if Mr Cheerful is not the sort to make cheap cracks then I'm sure he would see that I wasn't referring to him..
Arthur
In message , Andrew Gabriel writes
They were and the Rover has a particularly unpleasant 'relearn' on some models which has to be activated manually.
As suggested, I would tend to think accelerator cable. If not, the bubble shape (no sure on the previous model) can have issues with the accelerator sticking due to the flap in the throttle body not closing fully. A quick blip on the throttle normally cures this temporarily - removal of the flap and shaft with full cleaning before reassembly worked for me.
Assuming you still have issues, then worth checking resistance of the CTS (coolant temp sensor) hot and cold and also make sure that the system is bled correctly. ... there is water in there right ??? ;)
Cheers, Mark
As suggested, I would tend to think accelerator cable. If not, the bubble shape (no sure on the previous model) can have issues with the accelerator sticking due to the flap in the throttle body not closing fully. A quick blip on the throttle normally cures this temporarily - removal of the flap and shaft with full cleaning before reassembly worked for me.
Assuming you still have issues, then worth checking resistance of the CTS (coolant temp sensor) hot and cold and also make sure that the system is bled correctly. ... there is water in there right ??? ;)
Cheers, Mark
Thanks, but I only know where to put various fluids and the battery. Oh..sorry..you mean the radiator?...I'll check that tomorrow. Arthur
As suggested, I would tend to think accelerator cable. If not, the bubble shape (no sure on the previous model) can have issues with the accelerator sticking due to the flap in the throttle body not closing fully. A quick blip on the throttle normally cures this temporarily - removal of the flap and shaft with full cleaning before reassembly worked for me.
Assuming you still have issues, then worth checking resistance of the CTS (coolant temp sensor) hot and cold and also make sure that the system is bled correctly. ... there is water in there right ??? ;)
Cheers, Mark
As an aside, I once had the use of a car with a strange problem after starting. It turned out that the engine to body earth strap wasn't very good and when starting the accelerator cable got very hot (earthing the engine). This caused the plastic inner lining to soften and cause the throttle to jam until I pressed it hard to free it after it cooled.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.