Old toaster spare parts

[D.M. Procida]

I have an old Swan Brand 1950s toaster:

The element has just given up the ghost - it has broken along its length. It appears to be replaceable - it is mounted on a slide-in unit.

I imagine that the chances of finding a new element unit are slim. How best could I repair this?

Daniele

[Andrew Gabriel]

As mentioned recently in another toaster thread, I repaired a

1950's element with a high temperature crimp. The crimp was cut off a high temperature eyelet: would strongly suggest that if you are to continue using that toaster, you ensure it can only be supplied via an RCD.

[D.M. Procida]

Good advice. I rewired the mains cable and have ensured it's all properly earthed, but even so I didn't that much like the look of it all.

Daniele

[EricP]

I can't tell from the picture if it's a wire or ribbon element but a length of nichrome wire can be used to rewind the card provided you are gentle with the old former.

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article , Andrew Gabriel writes

:)

"Swan Toaster - Darwin Version"

[Andy Wade]

... with a tripping current of 1 mA :~)

[meow2222]

If its the element thats broken, crimping works. If its the former, I guess its sheet mica. Microwave ovens occasionlly use sometihng as high temp as that over the waveguide port, though many use plastics, so you might or might not find something upto it from nuke spares suppliers.

It doesnt look anything like the '50s toasters I've seen/had, more likely 1920s. The Dualits are classic 1950s, and far more modern designs.

NT

[meow2222]

PS I'd consider running that off an isolating transformer, with an RCD AFTER the transformer, not before.

NT

[Andrew Gabriel]

Um, an RCD does absolutely nothing after an isolating transformer...

[meow2222]

An RCD before the iso tf will not be effective on the output of the iso. Placed after the iso TF it will detect earth leakage downstream if the output's centre tap is earthed, which I did omit to mention.

With this combination, the iso tf means that:

1. a single touching of any live part will result in much less shock current, since its now 120v not 240.
2. 2 simultaneous touches can access 240v and bite badly, same as with no iso tf

And the RCD means that:

1. The RCD will trip on first contact, minimising single contact risk and removing nearly all of the 2 contact risk
2. should an insulation/earthing fault occur, which certainly can happen on 1920s kit, or any electrical kit, the RCD will act as a backup protection device.

None of the above will make the thing properly safe, so I cant recommend using the toaster at all. But if someone does, this will at least reduce the risks significantly.

Using it as-is direct on the mains isn't something I would ever recommend. As you go back in history electrical kit does eventually reach the point of unworkably risky. Converting to LV is one approach often workable. With a toaster its likely to be possible to convert it to run on centre tapped 110v provided by a site transformer. Where original switch contacts are insufficient, they can be brought out to a relay to control the power - but all this means significant mods to historic equipment, making it not a popular option. IRL people using prehistoric electrical kit know enough to take precautions - but knowledge and precautions do not eliminate accidents. When all's said and done, I'd just leave the toaster on the shelf unused.

NT