Old Granite cottage renovation

[Robin Soper]

Hi,

I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors & also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

I was planning to extend it (it's tiny but in a good location). However as the place is old (more than 100 years) it doesn't seem to have a Damp proof course, it's built of granite blocks with lime mortar (I assume) with a concrete floor inside.

What damp proofing arrangements would I need to make (if any), and if I extended would I need to make any special allowances?

Any general advice concerning this proposal would be gratefully received.

Regards Robin

[Grunff]

Damp proofing may not be required - it all depends. Out 70 year old house, stone walled and rendered, with a cocrete floor inside, has no damp proofing measures (that we've found so far).

When we moved in there was a fair bit of damp. But adequate heating and ventilation, as well as fitting gutters and the like has pretty much cured it.

So don't worry too much about the damp.

As for the services, you don't say how close it is to other properties. This makes a big difference.

[Nick Brooks]

simple question but expect many opinions. Here's one for starters

[Harry Ziman]

The point about gutters is really important. We have a Victorian farmhouse with a few damp problems. Fixing the gutters, new roof and lead flashing sorted it and we did not carry out the remedial damp course work identified during the survey. Doing sensible things like letting the property breathe can also help - for example mildew can form on the back of fitted carpets on tiled floors due to very slight permeability so we enjoy the tiles instead.

[Owain]

"Robin Soper" wrote | I was hoping somone could give me a bit of advice regarding a | derlict cottage I'm thinking of buying and renovating. It has | a solid roof and external walls but no windows or doors &

Get an experienced local conveyancing solicitor to check the boundaries and access permissions - very thoroughly.

| also has no services whatsoever (water/sewerage/electricty).

How close are they? Electricity can usually be brought in at a price, wells or boreholes can do water, but sewerage can be a pain. Stronger environmental regulations mean that septic tanks are now unacceptable in many locations. If you need to have klargester on or discharging onto a neighbour's land, check access permissions.

Owain

[Christian McArdle]

I might be talking complete b*llocks, but I would expect Granite to be pretty impervious as stonework goes. I'd think your cottage was one big damp proof course!

Provided you heat and ventilate the house so that any moisture passing through the mortar is evaporated and expelled, I doubt you'd have a problem. The floor may benefit from a damp proof membrane and insulation, though. Whilst you're there, think about underfloor heating. It would have significant advantages. It is excellent for houses with high thermal mass and means that your traditional cottage is unencumbered by modern looking radiators.

Christian.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Klargester at 5-10 grand installed is street legal for pretty much any location these days. You can dump outflow into a stream or soakaway directly.

BUT it needs electrickery to work.

Expect around 5 grand a METER to install that, from nearest power 11kv point,if it has to go underground.

Dunno about water either. Sometimes borehlles and punmps (need electrickery again) will suffice.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Good points, and seconded

[Jerry Built]

Was it ever really used as a house, do you know, or is it a building that had another function?

Oooh (sucks teeth) - the bloody pen-pushers will have a field-day. An extension will incorporate a DPC. It is likely to be impractical to put a DPC in the existing structure, the normal method of treatment if required is a vertical bituminous DPC and render ("tanking"). Do not use gypsum plaster.

Don't think too big!

J.B.

[John Rouse]

In article , Harry Ziman writes

Many older buildings have stone drains, formed by putting flat stones on edge a few inches in from the footings, and can be found both inside and out. These drain water away from the footings, and help to keep them dry(er). Over the years they fill with silt. Often this can be jetted out by poking a hosepipe in one end. Its amazing how a damp wall can be dried out by cleaning the stone drain, and applying a little heat and ventilation.

J.

[jacob]

Granite is really cold, a bad insulator. You might consider dry lining with insulating materials.

cheers

jacob

[Robin Soper]

Thanks for all the advice, the comments about the DPC are interesting. Granite is and igneous rock which I think means it is water proof, the mortar is not but as pointed out evaporation from old sandy lime mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway of to investigate costs of getting services put in!

Regards Robin

[Robin Soper]

Thanks for all the advice, the comments about the DPC are interesting. Granite is an igneous rock which I think means it is water proof, the mortar is not but as pointed out evaporation from old sandy lime mortar would probably take care of this. Anyway off to investigate costs of getting services put in!

Regards Robin

[N. Thornton]

call them and ask??

Regards, NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

Some time ago we worked out that the U value of a meter of Norman castle wall met current building regs on U values :-)

Just make it thicker!

[Fionah]

Depending on where your granite cottage is, it might be worth getting it checked for radon during your investigations. Combination of some small and fairly well defined areas of GB plus granite construction can be iffy. If it is a problem (unlikely but possible) then measures to minimise it are a potential additional cost as well as beign a good reason not to over insulate.

fiona