Oak worktop protection ?

Got some oak kitchen worktops on which we are using a product supplied by Ikea ... Behandla ... to protect the surface. The tops look fine but we do not feel as though this liquid is building up a sealed surface, therefore the missus has trays placed on the surfaces as she is not confident that she will not stain the wood.

Is there a better product for the job, which will not be affected by our current treatment?

Mike P

Reply to
Mike P
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As a woodturner I have often had to treat Oak for food use and in my opinion it is not a good idea to treat Oak then overcoat it with Linseed.

I searched for Behandla and the information given stated: Linseed oil, Wood treatment oil (?)*, Lead free drying agent, Water, Emulsifier (*My question mark)

If I were to recommend any treatment for Oak surfaces it would be Linseed oil applied hot so that it penetrates. Wipe down hard to remove excess, top up as often as you feel it requires. IMO

Hope this helps, Peter.

Reply to
petercharlesfagg

I used Danish Oil on an iroko worktop and it has been fine for years. Gives it a nice sheen. Easy to put on as you just wipe it on with a rag. I did 3 coats. Letting it dry hard between coats and a light sand.

mark

Reply to
Mark

Raw or boiled?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Raw and hot not boiled.

Regards, Peter.

Reply to
petercharlesfagg

Why raw?

Reply to
Andy Dingley

&deity; help you. Water staining will be a problem, any contact with wet iron is likely to generate indelible blue stains. If it happens, oxalic acid bleaches (try Barkeeper's Fiend) are your best hope for shifting it.

I love oak, but I don't like it for kitchen worktops. If I did use it, I'd polyurethane the crap out of it and make it look like an Airfix kit if necessary, anything to try and seal it a little. Even then I wouldn't be enthusiastic about it long term.

Ikea don't sell wood finishes worth opening the tin for.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

My understanding is that Raw Linseed works better because it is slower and needs more work to achieve a useful finish i.e. water resistance.

Boiled Linseed oil, as I understand it, is easier to apply and is thicker and dries more quickly but in my experience penetrates less. (Others thoughts would be appreciated)

A little of the suck it and see process perhaps?

Regards, Peter.

Reply to
petercharlesfagg

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