Numpty Boxing In Question

[TheScullster]

Hi all

We have recently had some building re-works done and I am now looking at heating mods. The heating pipes from the boiler occupy the corner of the dining room and need boxing in.

Ideally, it would be good if the boxing could be painted rather than papered on completion as we are going for the plain painted walls look throughout (for low maintenance rather than trend reasons!).

Having already had the dining room walls skimmed, I would expect that using studded plasterboard box would not seal/bond to the existing walls and there would soon be cracks appearing where to box meets the wall (expansion due to hot pipes in box etc.). I suppose the boxing should have been done before skimming so that the "corners" could be scrim taped and the skim continuous around the box and adjacent walls.

So, can anyone suggest best alternatives please? Also, how to get a good fit of the box edge to the wall surface?

TIA

Phil

[Brian G]

Phil,

Firstly, think what will happen if you use plasterboard and skim for the boxing and you have to remove it for repairs.

You would be far better off using a good quality plywood, screwed to the studding (using screw-cups) in this case. Grain-fill the ply, and then it rub-down, prepare and paint to your desired finish.

That way, if you have to remove and replace the casing for any reason, it can be done with minimal damage and problems.

Brian G

[TheScullster]

"Brian G" wrote

Thanks Brian

I presume by "screw cups" you mean cup washer type things? Also can you tell me how to grain-fill ply please?

Phil

[Nigel Molesworth]

Make a feature of it.

[Christian McArdle]

Personally, I would just use MDF. Cheaper and already smooth for painting on. It is also less waterproof, which is an advantage as it shows leaks earlier!

Christian.

[Tony Bryer]

At Jewsons a while back they had plywood bent to an L shape for just this purpose.

[Brian G]

Phil,

Screw-cups are used instead of countersinking the plywood to take the head of the 'countersunk' screw - you can get them flush or surface mounted - or you could simply use roundhead screws - it just makes things easier if you have to take the panel off.

Grain-filling can be obtained from any good builders merchants and is quite simply a very fine type of ready-mixed 'pollyfilla' paste (ask for grain-filler and NOT polyfilla).

to use it, just rub it all over the surface to fill in grain and minute holes, let it dry thoroughly and then rub it down (it helps to prevent a blotchy finish of the paintwork).

When you have done that, give the surface a 50/50 coat of thinners and paint (to raise the grain) and allow to dry. Rub it down, and then give it the normal coats of paint (rubbing down between coats) and you should then get a good finish (fingers crossed when painting ply panels). :-)

Brian G

[Brian G]

Christian,

"It is also less waterproof, which is an advantage as it shows leaks earlier!"

it also defeats the object of using plywood to make things easier - as you then have to renew the MDF panel(s) after they have got wet and then repaint them!

May as well then stick to the OP's idea of skimmed plasterboard and accept the damage if a problem occurs - thus needlessly paying twice for materials!

Brian G

[Mogweed.]

Use plastic trunking - and before anyone laughs, that's what the CH engineer used at our house. It has been emulsioned (because we went for the plain painted walls look as well) and it holds the paint well and looks excellent. I'll be going to the house tomorrow so I'll take some photos and put them up for all to see tomorrow night :o)

Mogweed.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Easiest thing to do - and I've done it - is ti use 12 or 15mm MDF, bonded with no more nails and the odd sunken screw, with polyfilla in the major cracks, then use a generous bead of decorators caulk on all the seams. and emulsion over.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Bloody nightmare,. Lots of acrylic primer rubbed down in between coats..

Use MDF, minimal surface prep needed and the emulsion goes straight on.

Since 99.99% of all pipes are normally fed through walls and under floors, it seems strange to want to provide access to them just because they are boxed in.

[Christian McArdle]

But the damage may show elsewhere and be far more expensive to replace, such as causing wet rot in your joists, as the ply has successfully kept all the water in. I'd rather have a hole in my MDF and know a few months earlier. It's only a few quid a sheet.

Plasterboard is good too, but might require more studwork than MDF, which will be self supporting.

Christian.

[Guy King]

The message from The Natural Philosopher contains these words:

If you're absolutely desperate to provide access, make up the box as advertised, using MDF etc. Then, fit it using magnetic catches so you can pull it off.

[Brian G]

Only strange until something goes a little wrong, then you wished that you had easy access - trust me on that one LOL