Now its getting warmer

A little gottcha for anyone with a S Plan heating system...

SWMBO had commented that the shower was not as warm as usual. Each time I tried it however it seemed fine. Given she does not have it anywhere near as hot as me (not as thick skinned I presume!), I did not give it that much mental attention at the time.

The other day I went for a shower and found it rather cold. A quick investigation showed that although the programmer was calling for heat, as was the cylinder stat, there was no call for heat from the zone valve. After investigation today, it seems the valve was getting a bit sticky, and the synchron motor could not quite drive it far enough to engage the microswitch. A bit of disassembly, lubrication, and waggling later and we seem to be back to normal operation.

Could well have been like that for some time, however during the colder months the water was getting heated anyway every time the room stat called for heat. Thus masking the fault. Now its getting warmer, there was less chance for the water to heat. Needless to say the programmer called water heating twice in the day, once early morning, and once early evening. it was after more radiator on time, and also after the main progstat had ramped up to higher evening temperatures hence running the rads more.

Reply to
John Rumm
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I have programmed my HW generally to come on when the CH *isn't* on - so that I don't have to worry about HW/CH balance. Any failure of the sort you mention would show up straight away in my house without needing to wait for summer.

Reply to
Roger Mills

My problem was the opposite. The timer was off and the cylinder stat was satisfied but the zone valve was sticking open and constantly calling for heat.

I removed the head and waggled the valve a bit and it seems to work now. What did you lubricate? Just the spindle of the zone valve?

MBQ

Reply to
Man at B&Q

Normally I would have done the same - but the combination of old cast iron lump non modulating boiler, and traditional coil in tank cylinder that can only absorb a 1/4 of the boilers output, means its more efficient to run both together for the end part of the heating. So I schedule the water to come on first on its own, and then have that joined by the heating 1/2 hour later.

Reply to
John Rumm

Yup, cleaned up the motor part with some WD40 - there was evidence that at some point it had got a bit wet with hard water scale on bits of it. And then some light machine oil on the spindle - with some twisting with pliers the oil was drawn into the gap at the base of the spindle and you could feel it free off. (the mechanical moving would probably have done enough on its own - at least for a while)

Reply to
John Rumm

Similar system here - but my measurents show that if I start the water heating first, the tank temperature decreases as the cold water from the boiler circulates through the coil. Not helped by the cylinder being the other side of the house of course. So in winter I think it is better to start the CH first to get the boiler heated before connecting the coil.

Reply to
Geo

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