I'll have to phone around on Monday.
The reason I want non-linseed oil putty is because of the hungry crows
around here can strip the putty from the bottom half of a window in a couple
I'll be renovating my sash windows soon. I favour water based paints for
environmental and security reasons (i.e. I can get four coats on in a day).
This means I'm using Glidden Acrylic Gloss. What I've read about Linseed
putty is that it needs overpainting with solvent based paints (right onto
the glass pane, which looks really ugly). Does the acrylic putty need such
overpainting? If it does, can it be done with Acrylic paint and do I need to
paint the glass also?
Eventually, I'll double glaze the existing sash frames, but I need a winter
of condensation on the windows to convince the other half that 4mm of 50
year old glass is a little stingy.
sashes, which need to be fairly resilient. A couple of coats of acrylic
primer would be better, followed by one thin coat of the gloss. I prefer oil
based for the topcoat but the white does "yellow" in time. Acrylic gloss
doesn't, but it's a very soft coating.
to the glass. Looks good because it hides all the grotty bits in the rebate.
You also don't have to worry about painting straight, which saves a lot of
with acrylic primer.
short of the edge. Gloss films can tear and give you a slightly jagged edge.
with the extra load. You'll also lose a lot of the internal detail on the
moulding, which is half the attraction. I'm with the other half on this one
Obviously, the majority of the thickness would be made up in primer. I was
planning on 2 coats of primer and 2 of gloss. Would 3/1 be better, then?
Well, I do hate the yellowing. Also, the problems incurred by using a paint
system that requires a full 24 hours between coats whilst I have no windows,
outweighs the benefit, I feel. On the other hand, will the Acrylic be
totally useless? It is designed for exterior use, but presumably the worry
is that it will rub off when the window is operated?
Excellent. Much better than those horrible hand painted 0.5-1cm overlaps we
have at present.
Obviously. However, even with the existing weights it would be an
improvement. We did find a few remains of sash cord, in the old ones. I'm
amazed the bottom sash survived me opening the window on the first day. My
Well, if we get through the winter without nasty mouldy condensation, I'll
not bother. I'm not too worried above U-values, just condensation. I was
told by a local glazing company that they could make sealed units 14mm
thick, so there would still be some moulding left on the vertical bar if we
did go ahead. There are no issues on the side beading, which isn't
I'll need double glazed sashes on the front of the house, though. A previous
owner put white uPVC in an overt attempt to annoy the neighbours. (They
managed to get the council to remove the shed he placed in the small front
garden, but they couldn't touch the windows). I'll need to examine them to
see if the sash boxes are still there. I think replacements would be
sufficiently major to incur the need for a building control notice, though.
In general you use as much primer as it takes to get the colour, and the
thinnest possible coat of gloss, particularly with acrylics where the
topcoat is the weak link.
It's better not to gloss the edges at all. Leave those primed and rub a
little candle wax on the parting/staff beads. Acrylic is great for exterior
stuff because it stays white and, from a distance, looks like proper paint.
Close up it looks more like a layer of cheap plastic.
You wouldn't be able to open the windows though.......
I've always found that heat and ventilation is the only way to cure that.
Sure, DG raises the surface temperature of the glass but the excess moisture
will just condense on the next coolest surface. Leaving the heating on an
extra half hour in the morning with the windows slightly ajar is often
enough. On really misty mornings, wiping with kitchen roll is quick and
easy. I have sliding sashes with no real condensation problems, but a few
doors away their windows are always steamed up on winter mornings. They do
have 4 young kids but I suspect the heating goes off too early as well.
Why do you need that much paint? Why can't you undercoat, leave
Acrylic putty should be overpainted. It is normal to lap the
paint up the glass approx. 1/8". This should not notice, let
alone stand out ("be ugly"). The advantage of putty is that
the linseed oil in iy bonds to and also protects the timber
of your sash frame.
You will need new weights, and there is likely to be a
difficulty in fitting DG units to the frames, although it
can be done. You might be better off having someone make
new frames up, which shouldn't break the bank. If not,
you will need to rout out the existing frames and ensure
the GUs are fitted correctly. It is very worthwhile
draught-proofing these windows (but NOT the botom or
meeting rails if you've got single glazing). Mighton,
who I've mentioned before, have suitable products.
Sent via the PAXemail system at paxemail.com
Well, the instructions suggest 2 coats of acrylic undercoat and 2 coats of
acrylic top coat for exterior applications.
If you reckon that Acrylic is in no way suitable for windows, what would
your painting plan be for a solvent paint (presumably micro-porous)? It
would be back to bare wood and need priming. I can probably live without
windows for one night. Then the windows have to be installable before 8pm
the next day. I thought it would need primer, 2 x undercoat and 1 top coat,
taking several days. I assume I can't use a solvent topcoat on acrylic
undercoat (or that I could, but wouldn't get the advantage of the
P.S. while we are still on windows, do you know where you can get sticky
backed plastic to frost my bathroom window? (or an alternative system to
actually replacing the panes with frosted glass). I'm now tired of the
neighbours giving me the knowing nod.
Christian McArdle wrote in message <3f4101ff$0$15030>
enough to hold the top sash up and one either side in the parting bead
groove will stop it coming forwards. Putting them in back to front/ upside
down is a good way to work on the outside of the sash from indoors. It means
you can take them in and out as often as you like, and the box acts as a
kind of vertical workbench. This way you wouldn't have a deadline either.
IME you'll find loads of unexpected bits of filling/sculpting that will ruin
any schedule you might have.
Christian McArdle wrote in message <3f40ff05$0$15039
shouldn't be any obstructions.
I don't think there's any way to draughtproof *existing* sashes and still be
able to move them freely, but you can improve them no end by re-positioning
beads. On that subject, you'll find that if you remove the old paint from
the edges of the upper sash, you'll have a gap between it and the parting
bead. As you can't move that bead, and the other surface is the edge of the
box, you're pretty much buggered.
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