New wooden window won't shut

[bob]

I've just had a new softwood window fitted (cottage style).

fitting I noticed that the top mortice fastner was tight, so much so that the brass effect paint had already began to come off. That said the window did close. Since then, the window has been stained and left slightly open. Now, the top mortice faster won't close, no matter how hard we pull we can't seem to pull top part of window in close enough to fasten, despite the bottom mortice fastner and stay being fully closed. I am really trying to establish the root cause of this:

a) mortice fastner may have been fitted slightly out, thus not allowing for natural expansion and contraction

b) staining in cold/damp conditions has caused window to expand

c) window has warped - fitting?

etc.

Who should I go back to - builder or distributor?

[bob]

I've just had a new softwood window fitted (cottage style).

fitting I noticed that the top mortice fastner was tight, so much so that the brass effect paint had already began to come off. That said the window did close. Since then, the window has been stained and left slightly open. Now, the top mortice faster won't close, no matter how hard we pull we can't seem to pull top part of window in close enough to fasten, despite the bottom mortice fastner and stay being in closed position. I am really trying to establish the root cause of this:

a) mortice fastner may have been fitted slightly out, thus not allowing for natural expansion and contraction

b) staining in cold/damp conditions has caused window to expand

c) window has warped - fitting?

etc.

Who should I go back to - builder or stockist (Travis Perkins)?

As always, any advice greatly appreciated.

[Pete C]

Hi,

You could try dusting the frame with chalk (coloured?) to see if it's binding somewhere.

Something else to consider is that the window frame may have been installed slightly out of square, esp if the window opening is, which would increase the chance of it binding. A large square (roofing square or square cut bit of glass etc) should help to check for this.

Try calling Jeld Wen too, they may be able to help.

cheers, Pete.

[bob]

Thanks Pete. Could I ask what you mean by binding? I have noticed this morning that with the bottom mortice fastner and stay in position you can see daylight through gap between top of window and frame.

[Christian McArdle]

This can happen if the existing window was actually used as a lintel, which was common (i.e. almost univeral) on older masonry properties. If the replacement window isn't designed to have the strength to hold the brickwork above up, then it can squash the window, preventing it opening.

This problem is more common with uPVC replacements, as timber windows are usually fundamentally stronger. However, if the framing on a timber window is shallow, it can also happen on them.

Christian.

[bob]

Christian, the window is currently only supported from below by a couple of bricks with a piece of wood going across them, as we are awaiting the soldier bricks. Could it be, with minimal support from below, the window is distorting from the weight above, even though it is side mounted?

[Pete C]

Similar to jamming, it sounds like your window is out of square:

Would be well worth finding out about fitting windows on the web, if the person doing it doesn't have a lot of experience.

Finding out the terms used and doing a search on them will give loads of info, eg:

cheers, Pete.

[owdman]

If the windows aren't fitted properly as you describe then you can't expect them to be stable. You shouldn't be trying to build around them in any case. You should construct the opening first and fit the windows when this is finished and dry, and only then attend to making them open/close properly. Using the window itself as a former is really bad practice - its easy enough to knock up a temporary frame to build around - just 4 bits of

2x4 and a brace, and a few nails. cheers

Jacob

[bob]

The opening used to house interior french doors to a conservatory, which has been removed; the opening has been bricked up to two courses short of window sill, to allow room for soldier bricks. Should my builder have waited for soldier bricks before fitting window or is it ok to fit in this order? I have re-examined the window this afternoon, it looks like the window sill is bowing slightly; the couple of bricks and plank of wood propping it up are in the centre. Will this be remedied when soldier bricks are put in?

[owdman]

Seems reasonable to tell the builder it's got to be remedied - its his job. If the window itself is faulty then it's his job to replace it (unless you supplied it yourself).

[Weatherlawyer]

Don't piss around waiting for the cowboy to foist you off with something else. Get an independant survey in from annother builder and ask if he can do the job properly f you can't do it yourself (it isn't hard to do.)

Whatever happens do not accept that window. Have it replaced and get your money back. Sounds like a small claims court job. Don't waste time phoning the arse. Registered letters -and just two or three of them.

Before you post it let us all have a dekko for pointers. Perhaps posting on UK.legal might help.

By the way; if you are going to post links, post ones that work and make them ones of the evidence not wholesaler's brochures.

[Stuart Noble]

All wooden windows are prone to movement, and the makers will find some way to blame the customer. You didn't seal them with 10 coats of xyz when the temperature was x degrees etc (none of which makes any difference in reality). You need to shave off bits here and there until you reach a happy medium where the window functions in wet weather without creating draughts when it's dry.