New hot water tank

Just had a new hot water tank fitted (not brave enough to DIY) and it is fine. Hot water is hot etc., but hot water now takes much longer to reach the taps than it did with the old tank. The pipework all looks the same, so is there any logical reason? Tank and boiler stats have not been moved. Not a problem as such - there is plenty of hot water, and at the right temperature, it just takes a long time to arrive.

The old tank would have been at least thirty years old. Have tank designs changed? System is entirely conventional. Oil fired boiler feeding hot water and central heating. Not a combi boiler.

Any thoughts?

Reply to
News
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Has any section of 22mm pipe been replaced by 15mm?

No gurgling noises that might indicate a partial airlock?

Reply to
Andy Burns

or, have any 15mm sections been replaced with 22mm (leaving a bigger volume of cold to flow out before the hot arrives?

Also, is it possible the hot flow has, by mistake, been taken from the lower connection on the HW tank rather than the top connection?

Robert

Robert

Reply to
RobertL

Any sign of air in the system, say of a long horizontal run?

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Surely nobody would make sucha fundamental mistake as to use the tank backwards, would they?

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Is the *flow rate* much the same as before? Then it is not an airlock or a restriction caused by (say) a bit of 15 mm or some other form of blockage.

Reply to
newshound

My thoughts precisely, but dead easy to test by feeling the pipes at the top and bottom of the tank as you draw off water at a sink, even if it's not obvious from inspection alone.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

One possibility is that better insulation keeps the heat better localised in the tank, whereas previously more of the attached pipework close to the tank may have had a chance to heat up.

Reply to
John Rumm

There may be some crap got down the pipework when they removed the old tank. It may be possible to clear it by linking hot & cold (mains pressure) taps with a bit of hose. Secure assistance and hold the hose against the tap outlets by hand with a bit of rag to help seal. Turn hot tap on first. Also clears any airlocks.

Reply to
harryagain

Do you mean that you now have to run off more cold water before the hot arrives, or that the flow rate is slower?

As explained it would be worth while checking that what should be the cold feed pipe towards the bottom of the tank does not get warm when you draw off hot water.

Reply to
Michael Chare

This is by way of a test, really, as I sent a more detailed reply earlier, that does not appear to have arrived yet.

To clarify, the flow rate is fine, as is the hot water, when it arrives. The problem is that we have to run off far more cold water than before, before the cold water becomes warm then hot.

What I am really getting at, is could this be because of a new tank design or some such, or should I ask the plumber to have another look. The new tank certainly has more insulation around it than the old one did.

Reply to
News

Yep. Until this is answered it's kinda hard to guess what's going on.

So what is it? A long time for the HW to come through or just poor flow rate?

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Sounds like you should get him back. If nothing else was changed the hot water should arrive as quickly as before. As Brian suggested, maybe he's cocked up the tank connections and is drawing water off from the bottom of the tank rather than the top.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Thanks Tim. I hear exactly what you say, and will certainly have a word with the chap, but I struggle to see how he could have mangled the pipes. This house was last replumbed in the 70s, and I can see exactly where he has used a few inches of new pipe, directly from the tank, then joining to the old pipe, which is obviously old, whereas the new is, well, new. Shiny.

Most odd.

I posted the following earlier today, but it seems to have disappeared.

Thanks, everyone. There was indeed air in the system when we first used the hot water after the new tank was installed, with much gurgling and spluttering at first, but that soon cleared.

Regarding changing pipe size, I don't think so. The only new pipe work is a few inches from the tank to the existing pipes. I should have taken a photo first, I suppose, but it didn't occur to me.

There are five pipes connected to the tank.

Right at the bottom, on the left, must be the incoming cold.

On the right, two connections, which must be the central heating. Bottom pipe (return to boiler?) is just above the level of the incoming cold. The other pipe on the right is, I assume, flow from boiler. About half way up the side of the tank. They are both 22mm, or possibly 28mm.

There is a pipe exiting the tank at the top, apex of the tank, which is presumably hot water to taps.

The fifth pipe is also on the left, exiting the tank at the side, but just below the top of the tank. 15mm. Where does that go?

Reply to
News

Possible I suppose and v easy to check, just put a hand on the inlet pipe at the bottom of the cylinder and if it is warm with the hot tap is on then summut is up.

Reply to
fred

An outlet below the tank top is often used for a HW supply for a pumped shower. This helps to prevent it drawing air down the expansion pipe. Do you have a pump?

The only other thing I can think of is that your expansion pipe might actually be dipping beneath the surface of the water in the cold header tank. In this situation it's possible for cold water from the header tank to be drawn down the expansion pipe an I to the HW system, particularly if there's any obstruction in the tank inlet.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

Could be a pumped shower, which is often taken from slightly below the top.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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