New fence post in old hole

I have just had a wooded post break in the high wind. I managed to extract the stump from the concrete.

I am thinking that I can fit a new post into the old hole (perhaps a bit of planing and force needed). I was wondering if anyone would suggest anything in addition?

Regards

John

Reply to
DerbyBoy
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Dig out the concrete, set a pre-cast concrete stub post in the hole, fill hole with concrete, when concrete set bolt old wooden post to new concrete stub post. It will never fail again.

Reply to
NoSpam

Or pack old hole with concrete and bang a bit of 2" angle iron in bang on one corner. When set, drill and bolt new fence post to iron. That will last for a long time before the iron rusts away.

Reply to
Tim Watts

These are made for exactly that job.

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

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Reply to
dennis

I know I'm stupid but why has no one asked what size the post was before proposing specific solutions?

For example, I can't see a 75 x 100 repair spur fitting very easily into a 75 x 75 hole.

In addition, would the wisdom of the crowd not normally urge a 100 x 100 post rather than a 75 x 75 to reduce the risk of future embarrassing wind events?

Reply to
Robin

Probably 5 or 6 foot:-)

Reply to
ARWadsworth

a job?

Reply to
ARWadsworth

The wind is not the root cause of the problem, rot of the post at the concrete to air boundary is. The solutions offered that avoided the post being in the concrete are very good ones. A bigger post will take a bit longer to rot that's all.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

And be stiffer. And, depending on design/circumstances, look better.

Reply to
polygonum

Oh aye. But even with them held above ground in one way or another would you use 3 inch posts for a 6 foot fence where you live?

Reply to
Robin

Only a f****it like Dennis.

"Ideal to use for repairing damaged fence posts which have broken off at ground level but are in a sound concrete base Accepts 75 x 75mm fence post".

I use these all the time, they work a treat & give a very rigid fix.

Bear in mind I spend more time repairing fence posts than Dennis does grassing people up.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I think 75x75 posts were invented to keep fencers in business. Even if you do nothing special, a 100x100 post will take *far* longer to rot through.

Tim

Reply to
Tim

That's what SDS drills on chisel mode are for.

A 75 x 75 should be adequate for 2m high fences in most areas, they don't rot when bolted to a spur.

Reply to
dennis

I find that an exellent solution is to use pinus radiata posts pressure treated with every poison known to Man. I have never had one rot yet. Howevr I live in a country where this is allowed. And I almost never use concrete in the bottom of the hole. I'm often chenging my mind about where fences should be, and it's a lot easy to pull a post out (with a hydraulic jack) if it doesn't have a huge lump of concrete on the end.

Reply to
Matty F

Reply to
stuart noble

I'd agree. I don't agree with digging a hole and pouring in a slop of concrete. 4 x 4 pressure treated post set into a hole . Throw largish stones in around base of post at bottom of hole and ram them home with the end of a sledge handle or whatever. More earth and stones ramming periodically as you go. Finish off with a collar of earth slightly higher than the ground, sloping to let water run off. This collar will eventually degrade but can be topped up as necessary to stop water pooling around the post.

We fenced off the 1.5 acre site with post and rail done like this about 20 years ago and its still rock solid.

Paul Mc Cann

Reply to
fred

I take it that this is a job you have never tried.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Yep - all depends on whether the posts were set in "postcrete" or were installed with a C20 mix by some bastard like me :)

Reply to
Tim Watts

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