New cooker help + wiring

>

>> I've been in the market for a cooker, an electric one. >> >> I've found 2 on argos but am torn with sleepless nights on which is the >> better one for me. >> >> Also there is a 10% off on the argos site using code COOK10 to get it >> ontopic :) >> >>
formatting link
>
formatting link
>>> I've never used one with ceremaic hobs but am used to electric cookers. >> They >> both seem good value and with the discount a really good price. >> >> I'm just after some opinions on which is the btter one to go for. I'm >> rarely >> this indicisive lol.

On the cooker there are 3 terminals from seeing it in a shop, live neutral, earth and on the wall same corresponding terminals it is just a case of strip the 6mm T&E and match them up or should I stop being cheap and let an electrican do it.

Reply to
Matthew.Ridges
Loading thread data ...

Sounds unusual, ours came with three-core flex which needed to be wired into the plate on the kitchen wall. Essentially it's the same as wiring a plug, except it's vital that there is an excellent connection with as little resistance as possible (which at the high currents involved could lead to heat being generated and ultimately a fire). That means making sure that the terminals are free from corrosion and that the copper is firmly gripped in the terminals (screws tight, but not so tight that the thread is put under too much stress which could cause it to fail). If you're not comfortable with it get an electrician in. Part P of the Building Regs may have something to say on whether you're allowed to do it yourself, but I've always ignored it completely.

Reply to
Martin Pentreath

You think an electrician will have the necessary nouse to tighten the terminals correctly? They're about as good as gasmen, looking for leaks with a naked flame.

Reply to
brass monkey

Wiring a cooker to an existing cooker point is fairly straight forward. One ought to use a high temperature silicone insulated flex for connection, but most people use 4 or 6mm^2 T&E since its far easier to get hold of, and the cooker is unlikely to be moved that often anyway.

Reply to
John Rumm

Check that the wiring from the CU to the cooker point is adequate. Ours was not adequate for a double oven.

Reply to
Invisible Man

Fair point, I tend to agree, which is why I'd rather do it myself and know that it's been done properly. But if you really don't know what you're doing, at least if you get an electrician in and the house burns down a month later your conscience is clear!

I found quite a few c*ck ups in my professionally-wired house when I moved in. The most baffling was the staircase lighting - four switches which had to be switched in a certain permutation before any light would appear. Whoever had done it clearly did not understand intermediate switches or how to wire them. To be fair neither did I but an hour or two on google (specifically searching this group) and I sorted it out! Presumably the guy realised it wasn't working properly when he did, but he couldn't be arsed to work out why not and just took the money and ran before anyone noticed.

Reply to
Martin Pentreath

I've just fitted a built in fan oven from Curries - the instructions stated H05VV-F 3 x1.5mm^2

John

Reply to
JTM

A fan oven doesn't take that much on its own.

Couple of weeks ago I wired in a neighbour's new electric cooker: the book said 9kW and at least 4mm^2 cable. The MCB is 40A (so OK for 9kW) and I used 6mm^2 FTE.

Reply to
PeterC

For a standalone cooker you can use 6mm FTE (PVC or LSOH) or 6mm H07RNF flex. Electrical factors & marquee suppliers will do 6mm H07RNF flex.

Ironically for compliance with regulations you should use flex, but most cooker cord outlets wiring accessories and some cooker cable inlet hole & cord grip's appear to be designed for flat cable. So you might actually find yourself filing cooker metalwork if you do use round flex. Comes down to how often you pull out a cooker for cleaning, PVC FTE is not really the right cable but has been used for donkey's years. Similarly flex really requires bootlace ferrules for the cord-outlet plate end and often ring terminals for the cooker end, which is two ratchet crimp tools.

Reply to
js.b1

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.