Myson Kickspace heater

Having a wall stat controlling the fan would give "good enough" control without needing a zone valve as well I would have thought.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+
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When this one was working all the radiators in the house would be giving of f heat before the fan kicked in due to the 43C switch and of course once th e room stat got up to set temp. the Kickspace heater was off too. Any room stat used with it would need to be connected to a zone valve which in turn would have to switch the pump on in order to circulate water. The only use a room stat for it would be to stop excess heat whilst cooking in the kitch en and that never was a problem.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

Yes, but once you fix the hoses you might find that it's overheating the kitchen when the CH is on. Ours certainly does sometimes now. When I get a round tuit I plan to fit a room stat.

Tim

Reply to
Tim+

We don't have a zone valve and we do have a wall thermostat specifically for the two kickspace heaters.

It works "well enough" that the kickspace heaters will come on whilst the CH is running if the room needs extra heating.

We can also bring the wireless thermostat into the room if we need it.

Zoning would perhaps be more sophisticated, but it is certainly not a requirement.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David

Tim+ and David I am encouraged by your reports that the Kickspace heaters a re working well for because to be honest it would be the ideal solution for any new kitchen. Our kitchen is 3 x 2.6m galley type kitchen with a door a t each end, any replacement will have the same layout the only changes bein g where appliances will be and types of cupboard. This does not leave much scope for using traditional radiators so Kickspace heaters would be a conve nient solution. It is my intention to get the one we have working and see h ow it performs. The one we have is the Myson 500 and having had the opportu nity to remove it and fettle it a bit the actual heat exchanger matrix seem s quite small about a third the size of the radiator in the bathroom which is a marginally smaller room. So is this heater adequate and if not how man y are needed for our kitchen?

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

Our kitchen - installed in 2009 - is a re-use of what was originally a built-in garage, so its floor was about 150mm lower than the rest of the house. This provided the opportunity to install wet underfloor heating as part of the job of raising the floor level. This works brilliantly, and doesn't take up *any* wall space.

Reply to
Roger Mills

A few points:

(1) The kickspace heater is a fan heater and so blows air through the heater matrix (much like the heater in a car) and thus is more efficient at transferring heat from the hot water to the air. Also, thinking about it, the heat transfer surface is all those little fins so the actual surface area is probably quite high for the volume. [I am assuming that it is a traditional radiator or towel rail in the bathroom.] Without the fan the heat output is very low - which is just as well as you don't have a TRV to stop the water flowing. Remember not to store anything "heat sensitive" just above the kickspace heater.

(2) Calculate the volume of the room, use a converter to see how many BTU you need, and match that to the nearest Myson (or other brand) heater. Sanity check to see if you have the correct size. A thermostat is a good idea because you can chuck a lot of heat into the room when cooking.

(3) We have a large living/dining room and kitchen which has a galley kitchen along one side (using all the wall space), bifolds along another side, and a log burner and cupboard space (plus internal door) along the third side. This leaves only one wall to hang a radiator.

So we have a (quite large) radiator on one wall with a TRV to provide the main heating when required, and the two kickspace heaters to provide a rapid warm up. We don't really expect them to come on much during the day, just first thing in the morning.

On general principles all radiators should if possible have TRVs (you need some volume available to prevent the boiler cycling AIUI) to prevent an individual room overheating if the boiler linked thermostat in another room is calling for heat. For kickspace heaters you can't normally use a TRV so the wall thermostat is the usual option.

As a side effect the kickspace heaters in our system provide the "always on" radiator volume which means we can run with TRVs on all wall mounted radiators.

In our case, also we also need a thermostat because the thermal gain even in winter is enough to heat the room on a sunny day. Again if the log burner is lit you don't want the kickspace heaters chucking out additional heat.

So - not happy that the flexible hoses supplied with the heater are a known source of failure.

Still wondering about the small possibility of an airlock somewhere obscure in your system which would stop water flowing without a direct flush back through the flexible pipe (as suggested up thread).

Also toying with the idea of persuading a vascular surgeon to put a stent in your flexible pipe. Or just gently push a length of small bore flexible plastic tubing up the pipe to provide a restricted flow until you can fix it.

Cheers

Dave R

Reply to
David

Roger the floor in our kitchen is a suspended T&G boarded floor, I am not s ure if this is suitable for underfloor heating and imagine may involve more work than it is worth to do it. Besides just about every service gas, elec tricity and water run under this floor and I do not want to create a situat ion where access to these services becomes difficult.

David my feeling is that it is as Tim+ pointed out a problem with the hose rather than an air lock, the heater has worked and it was only recently we noticed it was not kicking in. The heating system consists of a combi boile r in an airing cupboard in the bathroom roughly centrally placed. Two 22mm pipes bring the flow and return below the floor teeing into two 15mm pipes which run the full length of the house under the lounge and through under o ne of the bedrooms with radiators at the end of these two main pipes one in the lounge and one in the bedroom. All other radiators branch off these tw o pipes. The kitchen heater comes off the branch leading to the lounge radi ator and these are the only radiators that side of the boiler. We have neve r had any problem with flow to the lounge radiator and the kitchen one is a short branch off the main pipe work no more than 2m max.

Since we moved in to the property I have drained down the system twice once to reposition some badly placed radiators and replace a couple that were r usted externally and looked different to the rest. The second time was to t idy up pipe work that had been poorly connected to the previous system resu lting in a tangle of pipes making part of the airing cupboard unusable and to rationalise the rather tortuous route the flow and return were taking th rough an old fireplace that at one time housed a back boiler, I also separa ted pipes to enable insulation to be put on where none had been present bef ore this mainly involved cutting sections out of each branch and reconnecti ng. On both these occasions what drained out was very clear, cleaner was ru n through the system after flushing under mains pressure and inhibitor add. We have had little need to vent radiators although I do on occasion only t o find no air and clear water. Once pressurised the system holds pressure q uite well and in the near 3 years we have been here it has only needed to b e re- pressured as a result of plumbing work described. In fact the only sl udge that came out of any note was from flushing the Kickspace heater matri x and the one flexible pipe that flushed.

Richard

Reply to
Tricky Dicky

replying to Tricky Dicky, Jase wrote: I have the same problem. Reading the thread I didn?t think it could possibly be the flexi hoses but sure enough, it was! Thanks all

Reply to
Jase

And time travel?

How did you sort that one out?

Reply to
ARW

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