My first router (TM)

[Tim Watts]

Me and a mate are getting in on the good weather and tarting up my wooden window frames and soffits.

Without the boring background stuff, I want to be able to mill halflap profile into both long edges of softwood planking from stock about 1/2" thick by 5" wide for the soffits - so they are easy to remove.

Halflap profile itself will be 1/4" deep by about 3/8"-1/2" wide. I need just enough overlap to cope with shrinking plus a little to leave a feature rebate visible.

What do I need to buy to make reasonably light work of this?

Ideally I'd like to have reusable items - so I'd prefer a 1/4" router rather than 1/2" if it is man enough.

I'm open to the idea of either using enough "workmates" to hold the plank (on edge or flat) and hand-run the router down it - or - a router table. The table should be small and storable or I'm open to making something simple and bespoke out of a sheet of ply and some 4x2 and leaving it outside for the duration of the job (unbolting the router obviously). But the router setup must not end up being more time consuming than the actual project!

I should also note I do not have a level drive to work on - it's lumpy and slopey.

I think once the basic method is established, I will be asking some questions about the correct bearings, cutters, guides, etc.

I am not looking for sawmill speeds here - bear in mind each plank is going to take a little time to fit, and a long time if it's the 3rd one as that has to be trimmed for width to suit the wall. If it takes me 10 mins to do mill a plank 2m long both sides, that's OK - as long as it is not fiddly.

Thanks in advance :)

Tim

[Bill Wright]

Take courage. I've just got a router and although I found it all very confusing at first once you get started it's quite straightforward. I got a secondhand Bosch machine (a big heavy one) for £20. A real bargain because the guy who had it was ill not long after he got it so it was hardly ever used, then when he died his son had it but never used it because he already had one that he liked.

Here's what I've learnt so far: The Trend catalogue is the gold standard for quality cutters You can get much cheaper cutters from Wickes and B & Q if you don't need a fantastic finish If possible get a 1/2" machine because they hold the cutter more rigidly and will do heavier work if ever you need it A 1/2" machine will work with 1/4" cutters, you just put an adaptor in. Get a powerful machine (2kW) because it makes the work easier. Use it on a fast speed for softwood when using a small cutter and take it steady and you get a better result. Get a plunge router. Can't see the point of the non-plunge ones. Get one that has a fence with reasonably long arms. Use eye protection. Fasten the work down really firmly.

Hope this helps.

Bill

[John Rumm]

In terms of the size of cut you are describing, you would be able to do that with most routers. A medium sized 1/4" machine will do it - probably best done in two passes. A larger 1/2" machine will do it in a single cut.

Have a read through the Router FAQ for more info:

To be fair, even a 500W laminate trimmer class machine will cut a 1/4" deep 1/2" wide slot.

For that kind of work, handheld use is not too difficult. You can either used a rebate cutter with a guide bearing, or use the router fence and a straight fluted cutter.

For example, cutting a 1/2" x 1/2" rebate in a door frame:

(note that running the fence on the opposite side of the stock from the cutter is not best practice, but circumstances dictated in this case)

You probably don't need a table for this job. Tables come into their own for using very large cutters that would be unsafe for handheld use, and for moulding operations where you need very accurate alignment and control during a cut.

A couple of cheap folding saw horses will do the trick...

You can use additional sections of timber to widen the stock you are routing if required - it makes balancing the machine on the edge of a board easier.

Fire away when ready...

Rebating is not a fiddly job...

[stuart noble]

Might be worth considering a sawbench? It's how I'd do it if the wood is reasonably straight

[Tim Watts]

Thank you John. Extremely interesting stuff...

I've been thinking about getting a couple of these:

(Sealey FTAL1 trestle legs).

They have 4 adjustable legs that means I could set up on my wobbly drive.

They might do for this job - especially if I get a long bit of flat 6x2" to act as a "thin bench" to clamp the soffit down (which being long and

1/2" thick will be a bit wobbly).

It had also occurred to me that I could later (and for different work) use some 18mm ply with a bit of framing for stiffness to make a loose-top workbench that would sit on these trestles. And maybe even start to machine in some guide rails to make a poor man's router table.

That would be inexpensive and would flat pack for easy shed storage. And could evolve at the expense of more ply.

Hmmm...

[Tim Watts]

So if I clamped the piece face-up, how much width of rebate would a good

1/4" router do in a single pass, to about 1/4" depth of cut?

Or would I be better aiming to do a 1/2" wide cut in 2 passes at 1/8" deep then 1/4" deep.

Sorry - I wasn't sure if you meant the passes were done at increasing width or increasing depth....

[Andy Burns]

I got a pair of the Stanle faxmax saw horses

Didn't pay that sort of price though (at least I don't think I did) they're sturdy, adjustable height, make a decent temporary bench with the addition of an old door or couple of sleepers

[Andy Burns]

Depth normally, the "turret" under the stop bar rotates to let you step down in several (3 usually) passes.

[Tim Watts]

Thank you - they look good and have the adjustable feet. I had not come across them in my searches!

[Tim Watts]

Ah - thank you...

[John Rumm]

Its probably the kind of cut i would take... it does depends a bit on the type of wood. Some hardwoods route noticeably better than pine for example.

To be fair, could be either. Normally if using a cutter of the required width, then you would step down depth. With a rebate cutter with a bearing on it you could do the same, or do a first pass with the fence set to space the bearing away from the edge a bit.

[John Rumm]

I normally set a plunge depth limit and then just estimate "less than that" for the first pass, before plunging to the limit for the final pass.

[Andy Burns]

Just checked, I got them from toollineuk.com for £64 delivered the pair.

[Andy Burns]

Looks like they no longer stock the fatmax ones, only the plastic stanley ones, and various other ones.

[Tim Watts]

This will be plain ordinary untreated softwood. The soffits are very sheltered so no point in using anything fancy and they will get 2 coats of Sadolin anyway.

(Did use western red cedar for the gutterboards though - they take a beating and are really hard to replace!)

Cool -thank you :)

[Tim Watts]

Hi Andy,

Are the legs infinitely adjustable - or do they move in discrete steps? If how, how much roughly? In other words do you still need thin packing to get them "right" on uneven ground?

Cheers

Tim

[Andy Burns]

They have 1" stops with markings on each leg.

[Tim Watts]

Thank you Andy. I have some rubber ladder pads - so in the worst case those should take out any rocking.

[Rick Hughes]

Don't get 1/4" get an 8mm

8mm shank is much stronger, I have a TREND T5 and a collection of TREND CraftPRO TCT cutters

8mm routers will also downsize to 1/4" collet ... but never bought a single 1/4" shank bit

Lighter than a 1/2" for handheld work (I also have a T11 1/2" Router but usually only used in a table)

[Tim Watts]

Thanks Rick - glad you mentioned that. Sounds like something I should check out - not that there's any lack of benefit by the sound of it, if it cam take 1/4" too!