Multimeter

Especially since manufacture ceased in 2008!

Reply to
Bob Eager
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Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

Ah - I thought I'd seen them on sale in RS much more recently. At the thick end of 1000 quid.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Perhaps someone bought them out....I think they were about £600 in 2008!

Hmmmm. I was wrong - and my information was. £870 plus VAT. Tagged Megger, but that's been true for a while.

Reply to
Bob Eager

JUst checked again - all marked as Discontinued Product.

Reply to
Bob Eager

I've never heard of a fuse that can protect a 50uA current range

madness

NT

Reply to
NT

Autoranging doesn't enable a 1A meter to read 10A. Analogues can - not accurately, but enough to tell what state a battery's in.

NT

Reply to
NT

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>>>>> Owain

Yup, made for the task. Having said that, a set of test leads with clock clip add ons that screw onto the end are also very handy for this.

A long test lead can at times be handy (I have one on a small reel with

4mm plug and socket either end) - its sometimes easier to buzz between the switch and the rose rather than using the switch as a round trip link to close your test circuit (particularly when the switch is an electronic one that you can't turn "on" when not powered).
Reply to
John Rumm

You estimate how bent the needle is, and that tells you how much MORE than 1A it was when the needle hit the end stop.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Hi all,

I still use the Avo multiminor I bought from an army surplus stall for ten bob many moons ago. I still like the very tactile rubber covered probes. Ooo er missus!!!

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

True, however the converse is also true - knowing how the boiler control system works does not help if you don't know how to use the multimeter to diagnose it.

Reply to
John Rumm

En el artículo , charles escribió:

It's the rubberised 'zebra stripe' connector between the LCD and the PCB. Take it out, clean the edges *very* gently with IPA, and reassemble. Do not get finger oils on it.

The black bits are the conductors and the connection is made via compression to pads on the PCB and LCD.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

That's because an analogue mechanical meter would be horribly inaccurate measuring tiny currents on a higher range - not so a decent DVM. The lowest range on my Fluke is simply mA - but it will read to three decimal places for small current.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

No - but it allows a 10 amp one to read 1 amp, if that's in the spec.

I've not found anything my AVO8 can do that my Fluke can't. However, the Fluke can do lots not even thought of or more likely possible when the 8 was designed.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Yeh - they're great. Fiddling with a knob each time you need to measure resistance - only to find the battery is too flat to zero it. And only available new from specialists.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

It says "takes HP7 battery" in the lid, that's not so specialist!

Mike

Reply to
Muddymike

That sounds like a late model.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Thank you. I see 3 Pozi screws on the back. I'll try taking it apart tomorrow.

Reply to
charles

In message , gremlin_95 writes

I've flicked through all the postings so far. Has anyone mentioned maybe making sure to get one with an AC current range? Lots of the cheaper meters - while perfectly adequate for most uses - only have DC current. £30 - £40 should get you a reasonable one. Otherwise, £15 - £30. Some of the really cheap ones (

Reply to
Ian Jackson

Wedge a fire door open ;-)

Reply to
John Rumm

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