SWMBO is set on a new front door and wants one with multipoint locking. However due to the render and finish on the house it will be a major pain in the arse to try and fit a composite door with new frame. Therefore a standard replacement wooden door (which I prefer anyway) has been selected. Has any tried using multipoint locking in such a door? Are there any pitfalls that we should be aware of?
Cheers
MArk
Your joinery skills need to be excellent. You will need to cut the stepped channel for the multipoint in the edge of the door with a router, and the mortices for the mechanism(s). This really needs to be precise, and right first time. You're probably going to have to hand cut the hook/roller/latch strikers into the frame.
I fitted multipoint locks into a set of double doors on a chapel. The slave door has bolts top and bottom into the frame, operated from a central handle, with an internal thumbturn latch only, and a false mullion to carry the hook/roller/latch striker plates for the master door. The master door has bolts top and bottom into the frame, two hooks, two rollers and a latch (with keyturn both sides) into the slave door. Final results are excellent, I think it would take a sledgehammer and some persistence to force them.
(if security is high on your agenda - and I guess it is if you've chosen to fit a multipoint in a timber door - be aware that many euro- cylinders are also vulnerable. Evva 3KS, if you can accept the cost, is one of the best lock cylinders)
I'd recommend you use 3 or 4 lift-off hinges (I didn't, but subsequently have started using them everywhere), as you may find you have to tweak the fitting once or twice, and they reduce some of the struggle with weight of the door. I also had the luxury of making the doors and frame from scratch, so had the opportunity to cut the lock channels/strikers before assembling the doors/frame.
PVC doors tend to have a bit of flex in them which provides some slop for less than perfect alignment. With a solid timber door, your work must be precise. There is some slop adjustment in the strikers, but not the top and bottom bolts.
I don't want to put you off too much - but your joinery should be of the level "I check my work with vernier callipers - because I sure can't see any inaccuracies"
As ever, and like everything else, practice on some scrap material first! It's very satisfying to engineer wood, and is doable with plenty of patience, good chisel-work and a router.
Good tips. Care to share the info on the hardware you used? Are there any multipoint sets that don't try to lock the latch handle when they lock? I see that as a challenge to the scrotes who attempt to move it by levering (even though that doesn't open the door) and end up buggering up the mechanism.
As an alternative, on a single door, I have used 2 BS mortice locks on the lock side and an oversize piano style hinge on the hinge side.
Any pics of the chapel install?
Lockmaster. They do a specific double-door set.
Not that I know of.
In article , snipped-for-privacy@gglz.com writes
Thanks, the hookbolt versions look interesting, shocking website though.
That's just the sort of thing I want to replace the lock on this:
JGH
That's scary. Make sure your paintwork is perfect too, because you don't want the wood drying out and shrinking, or getting damp and expanding, with the seasons...
Andy
I doubt the multopoint lock strip would tolerate much warping in the door. Vaguely from memory - the main channel was 15 mm wide by 2mm deep (to hold the metal strip) with an 11mm wide by 9mm deep channel within that (to hold the backplate containing the gubbins/trackrods on the back). Plus mortices for the mechanisms.
With a quality commercial exterior timber door, it should be pretty flat (though I would check, and if necessary return it, if the lock side is bowed by more than say 2-3mm).
The door will need to close up very evenly into the frame too, so checks for true/squareness needed here as well.
I've found these hinges...
(note the hinges come in left and right - and aren't interchangeable)
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