The roof is nearly done - i.e. at least half way through.
Now waiting for the wind to drop a little before putting up the metal sheets - although rain is now forecast for tomorrow :-(
Cheers
Dave R
SWMBO took one look and said: "That's not a shed - it's a bungalow!"
Very impressive...
What timber sizes did you go with in the end?
Sounds like fun! ;-)
In message , David WE Roberts writes
Just a tad. The barn I am part way through cladding has 9"x3" timber purlins spanning 15' bays at around 4' spacing. This supports 80mm sandwich insulated steel sheet.
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground, apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get two goes so be exact!
I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.
regards
No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile. I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.
Went with the 2" * 7" at 400mm spacing which IIRC you said was more than adequate. Because of the way the roof is fixed there are 2" *3" 'purlins' at right angles to the joists and screwed to them. The alternative was to run joists the length of the shed - about 7.6 metres - which is a long span and would require some kickass timber. Engineering a slope would also have been more difficult.
Should I decide at a later date to re-enginer the roof I could have a seriously big sun deck there :-)
Remebered overnight that I have to paint the wood to prevent the preservative reacting with the roof sheeting.
I think my phrase was "even 50x175 is well in excess of what is required"!
(I think I would have used 50x150)
Indeed - or a helicopter landing pad ;-)
Sounds like fun - not!
Layer of gaffer tape along the top of the joists?
Too late - just finished painting it. Looks even more like a pallet now (at least, like the old style ones which they used to paint with black stuff to preserve them).
In message , David WE Roberts writes
er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.
Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.regards
Plastisol sheets which cover 1m width with an overlap. I got quotes from two suppliers for all the bits and neither mentioned sealing strips along the overlap. IIRC I did ask about the overlap and was told that it would seal. I think I would be more worried about capilliary action than 'bounce' - but obviously this is my first time using such a sheet.
The diagrams for the roofing profile on
err......
just found
" ROOF PITCHES of 10 Degrees and below.
In the cases of roof pitches of 10 degrees and below. Before fixing, all laps (both side and end) should be sealed by placing a bead of Butyl Sealant (Like putty on a roll) between the two lapping sheets and the laps secured with Seam Stitchers a 12 - 18" centres. (see below) This prevents wind driven rain from being driven up the slope under the top sheet and penetrating the building. This also applies to Corrosive Industrial Locations and Coastal Locations where corrosive salt spray can be driven between the sheets. In these conditions consider using a cut edge lacquer to prevent rusting of the cut edge. This is not necessary under normal conditions."
at the bottom of
Thanks Tim - just in time!
I now also have to decide if I am in a 'Coastal Location' (being in a sea side town) and need to find some 'cut edge lacquer'.
In message , David WE Roberts writes
I struggled to buy butyl sealing strip locally and ordered from the roofing supplier.
The other choice worth mentioning is *direction of lap*. I guess you will know which is your prevailing wind. Start roofing from the
*downwind* end.regards
Found a 3M product which seems to fit the bill.
BDK Industrial Products 01473 659059 Levington Park Levington, IP10 OJE Fax: 01473 659104
Just down the road from me :-) Assuming they sell retail - going to ring them. Travis Perkin stock the seam stitchers.
Rain tomorrow. Windy today and no second pair of hands. Still, getting closer every day :-)
Just talked to my local supplier and they have two variants 'on the shelf'.
12mm wide by 3mm thick 50mm (2") wide by 2mm thickDid you use either of these sizes? These are the ones they stock - others can be ordered 'in box quantities' which does not sound economical.
Rang the roofing supplier to check what width to use and they said they usually use something like
So more options but no definitive answer. Off to measure up the profile.
Now considering the potential pitfalls of standing on the metal roof whilst installing the sheets. Do you use a 'crawling board' to spread the load? The gap between purlins is about 800mm.
In message , David WE Roberts writes
HP500 and then NFRC Class A, the other... GCA . NFRC Class A. The tape is around 6mmx4mm grey butyl rubber.
Get the push on plastic covers those screws rust 70miles away from the nearest sea.
Good luck:-)
In message , David WE Roberts writes
I didn't but the composite sheets are very strong.
A pair of hands at either end should get them positioned. You can reach across from inside to put in the fixing screws. Stitchers come afterwards. I suppose a ladder laid along the sheets would be reassuring.
regards
In message , Tim Lamb writes
I'm not sure if this will work but try
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