Can anyone tell me what is considered the minimum slope that a pitched, tiled roof may have? (My location is often hammered by gale-force winds in Winter.)
This will be for my detached, double garage. Can anyone give me a rough idea of the cost of materials, using bog-standard construction, with two sloping sides, and blocked-in gable-ends? I may use concrete tiles, to match the house - or a cheaper alternative, perhaps.
Thank you..
Al
The tiles will be specified with a minimum and maximum laying angle. lower pitch will require greater overlap ie more tiles per sq m.
Rule of thumb. Most tiles will tolerate 30 degrees, at 20 degrees your will have a reduced choice.
It depends entirely on what the weather surface is. It could be five degrees or less for sheet metal. It could be anywhere between fifteen and thirty degrees for tiles. Also the amount tiles are "overlapped" has a bearing. Also depends on local wind speeds and rainfall. The manufacurers have data, you have to check it out
I use 17degrees as a minimum with Mareley lay on concrete tiles.
I had 17.5 deg in my mind as a minimum (dunno why)
I think 17.5 is the official figure, but I've got away with 16 in some places when necessary.
As others have said, it depends on the tile. Marley Wessex tiles are good down to 15 degrees
We face the north winds here, and we are high up, so sometimes there's a hell of a wind. A neighbour put a pitched roof on his flat-roofed bungalow and it was done with flat concrete tiles at 17deg. One side faces north, and just very occasionally when the wind's bad some rain creeps in and runs down the felt to emerge dripping from the little vents in the underdrawing.
Bill
I have previously used forticrete centurian tiles which can go as low as 11 degrees when fully nailed down - they supply plastic clips that nail into the battens. The tiles have a baffle on the top to stop rain being blown underneath the tile above. Simon.
Phone either Redland, Marley or Sandtoft they all have a person to person reps on all technical advice
"Phil L" wrote in news:oTKCv.11039$ snipped-for-privacy@fx13.am:
Thanks to everyone for the help! One slight complication is that the building is not exactly rectangular. one of the gable ends was built un- square to the adjoining walls. It is maybe 3 degrees out of true (i.e., one of the adjoining walls is about 9" shorther than it's opposite, parallel counterpart). Hopeully I can get around that without rebuilding the entire gable end, which would require widening the existing footings.
Al
We used Marley Cambrian reconstituted slates which are rated at 15 degrees. Building Control approved them (but would not allow natural slate.)
Robert
Depends of the tile & fixing .... You need to decide on tile and look up manufacturer spec on mimimum, pitch .. Mine were 30 degrees min, nailed first 2 rows and every 3rd row, and all eaves tiles.
Or decide on pitch and find tile that works.
FWIW when you need to go extra-low, one can roof with flat asbestos equivalent then tile over it.
NT
A few years ago I had an extension (single story) built with a pitched roof. I wanted to match the main roof tiles(concrete) and was told by the architect that because of a bedroom window where the roof joined the wall, the pitch was too shallow but I could do it if I put a layer of onduline sheetimg below the tiles (presumably to channel away any rain blown under the tiles). Roff isv exposed to the west and 10 years on no problems
Malcolm
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