Methods of cooling a room

With this hot weather and working in an air-conditioned office, I've been dreaming of trying to get our house's temperature down to something more comfortable.

Obviously, buying an air-conditioning unit would probably be the best way - though I think these are quite pricey (I think anything more than £150 would be out). Also the cheaper ones are very noisy aren't they? Plus, ideally I'd want a split unit... anyway

I've heard about these evaporative coolers - and I've also heard how people think they're snake-oil, and I understand how they're physics are doomed to failure - however I do know of people who claim they work. I guess the difference is between the temperature we feel and the actual temperature.

Please correct me if I'm wrong. High humidity when its hot means that my sweat doesn't evaporate as quickly/easily so I feel hot. Surely then reducing the humidity is the way to go as this will allow my sweat to evaporate more easily.

So - would a dehumidifier help to reduce how hot I feel? I've never seen them advertised as being able to do this - whereas things which humidify (evaporative coolers) seem to claim they do.

Basically I'm confused about it and just want a (reasonably) cheap option (also preferable movable between living room + bedroom) to cool us down. Fans may be the best option (price wise) I know - but I'm trying to think of other options too.

Incidentally, what's the sort of price I should expect for a reasonable split air-conditioner? I'd love to be able to permanently install one for the living room - however it then seems a waste as I can't use it in the bedroom (unless it managed to cool the whole house down!).

Thanks

D
Reply to
David Hearn
Loading thread data ...

Don't bother with a./c units in the UK climate. Just enjoy the nice weather as it comes along, so infrequently.

To cool a room, not freeze it, have some sort of forced ventilation bring in cooler air from the north side. Heavily insulate the loft. use radiant barrier in the loft to as this reflects heat back out from the tiles.

Reply to
IMM

I'm sure that it'll come as a surprise to you, but just as there some (many) people who regard Milton Keynes as one of the inner circles of Dante's hell, there are those for whom 30C/90F temperatures are anything but "nice".

... and the relative costs of these options are ...?

Julian

Reply to
Julian Fowler

There is something in what you say. I regard south London a hell. All those sink estates.

I lot cheaper than an a/c that will be used a few days a year, and buttons to run.

Reply to
IMM

Your last suggestion sounds quite a good idea actually. Our roof is unlined and very dusty (I think due to it being unlined). I've wondered about whether we could put something on the underside of the roof to stop all the dust etc coming from the tiles (which is where it seems to be coming from). If we put something reflective (on both sides?) onto the underside of the roof this may both stop the heat coming into the loft, and also stop some of the dust (so we may be able to use it for storage!).

Now - what would you suggest to put on the underside of the roof? I wouldn't want to put anything which may cause problems (damp etc) and I'd not want to do anything which a surveyor in the future may take issue with (though they'll probably take issue with anything!)

Any suggestions?

Thanks

D
Reply to
David Hearn

Until you actually stop and think about it.

Dust yes, but heat? No, the only way to reduce heat input from the tiles is to put thermal insulation under the tiles.

Reply to
Grunff

Another know-it-all who knows nothing. The Florida Solar Energy Center says: "Based on our findings, we recommend that radiant barrier systems be considered for homes with shingle roofs both in FPC's Home Energy Improvement program as well as emphasized in FPC's new homes program where installations would be most cost effective."

Take a look:

formatting link

Reply to
IMM

The loft does have insulation (as thick as the joists). There's just no felt under the tiles (ie. I can physically touch the tiles).

I forgot to say that we've got one of these. At least, sort of. I fitted it fine - but I've got to sort out a wobble with it - it has 3 speeds - top speed wobbles far too much and makes a pulsing noise. The 2 slower speeds are okay (no visible wobble, but still a quiet pulsing noise) - and we use it as such. I need to take it down and put something under the mount (currently just metal to lath/plaster into joist) and possibly use longer screws. Once that is done, I'll then consider swapping the blades around (though they claimed they were all matched in the factory).

What we've been doing is using the ceiling fan (which we don't seem to notice does anything except make a pulsing noise which annoys us slightly) and also a pedestal fan. Makes things more bearable - though its still too hot....

Maybe shedding some pounds off my weight may make things a little better... ;) I've been meaning to do that too!

Thanks

D
Reply to
David Hearn

Heavy dust on radiant barrier reduces its effectiveness. Plug the holes first.

Reply to
IMM

But it needs a thinker to think about it. And you fail in this respect.

Reply to
IMM

Hmmm ... I don't suppose its a *teeny* bit possible that this might apply to US-style houses built in Florida, and might not be applicable to conditions here?

:-)

Julian

Reply to
Julian Fowler

Did you read it? No. If they work in Florida they will work here. A barrier under tiles is well a barrier under tiles anywhere.

Reply to
IMM

Our dining room faces due south and there's a large bay windo which lets all the sun in. It's horrible.

The answer is to draw the curtains on the south side of the house. The rest of the house isn't a problem.

We open windows of course to catch whatever breath of moving air there is. But covering windows seems to be the most effective solution and costs nothing. If you have curtains ... in the caravan we lower the venetian blinds.

Mary

Reply to
Mary Fisher

"RichardS" wrote

It's not such a sophisticated solution, but I wouldn't be without my 3KW fan heater, which also has a cool setting. It has the great benefit that it can be moved from room to room. Over the last couple of days the cool setting has been bliss, since I can focus the moving air exactly where I want. It may not technically cool the room, but it feels as if it does, and that's what matters.

I primarily keep it in case the central heating ever breaks down, just as I keep a few candles and matches in case of a power cut. But it's also useful for quick spot heating, and as a very fast hairdryer in an emergency. Although I've never tried it, I imagine it could also be used as a quick fabric drier - you know, if you need to rinse spaghetti sauce off of your favourite party frock without getting changed in the middle of your dinner party!

In other words, it can be of use all year round and for several purposes - far more sensible than blowing a fortune, I think, during a once-in-several-years heatwave.

Barbara

Reply to
<Barbara

Shingles are made from Western Red Cedar, not the material that is used for roof tiles here.

.andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Reply to
Andy Hall

Have to say, I'm in agreement with the other posters here. From a physics point of view, putting a reflective material where no direct IR radiation hits it is going to be of negligible use - also with tiles, they will contain the heat for a good while, which will not help either. Putting a thick insulating material under it will be a better option - be careful there's enough ventilation though.

Now if you put tin foil on top of your roof tiles it WILL do an excellent job!! Not so sure your neighbours or the local council will go with you on that though after you blind everyone who passes by ;o)

Think of it like this - if you put spuds on the BBQ in foil, you'll burn your hand off if you pick up the foil because the potato inside it is hot and in contact with it. If you put a sheet of foil between you and the flames, it will be a very effective heat barrier.

a
Reply to
al

read the site some more

Reply to
IMM

It's not "once in several years". The temperature and or humidity gets way to high every year for a good three months. Why bother with the central heating? After all, mostly you don't need it. I mean, just for December, Jan, Feb, it's hardly worth it, eh?

Reply to
Simon Gardner

It is easy to keep cool, but not keep warm. Most people like hot weather, that is why we all flock to the Med each year.

Reply to
IMM

So that means you haven't looked all over the institutions site then.

Reply to
IMM

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.