Metal RediDrives and Metal Easy-Drivers- What is difference?

[Blair]

Screwfix show two types of cavity fixings as above Are there different uses for each?

Blair

[Stefek Zaba]

Don't think so, just a difference in price and possibly quality. I've only used the pricier one, the RediDriva, which has always held very well in the PB walls here. From the photo, the EasiDriva looks as if its thread doesn't cut quite as far into the PB, so may be suitable for slightly lighter loads but may be less likely to crack the skim (which the RediDrivas do when driven just a bit too deep - not far, mind, just for a few mm around the fixing, based on a sample of exactly one house, objects in the mirror may be closer than they appear, E&OE, etc. etc. ;-)

Stefek

[Blair]

EasiDrive would probably be adequate. Blair

[Stefek Zaba]

Your choice, of course. Me, once I'm making up a Screwfix order, I figure (a) buying a box of 100 from a semi-trade supplier like them is so much cheaper than buying a plastic-pack of 10 from a shed that I may as well at least consider a notch up in quality; (b) if I'm going to have a large (to me) quantity of them lying around for the next 2-5 years, I may as well have the grade that'll let me do more jobs.

But as I say, I don't think there's that much in it!

Cheers, Stefek

[David Lang]

Blair asked

Probably just cost per 100. I guess the metal ones are better, but if you are going to use a lot the nylon ones are cheaper.

Never quite understood trying to save money on consumables. Wood glue is a good example, Titebond 2 versus PVA. Titebond is double the price, but glue is about .01% of the cost of a project, so why not buy the best?

Dave

[Blair]

A friend told me that he bought a pack of 10 metal RediDrive from B&Q but they cost about £8 Screwfix (owned by B&Q) charge £8.71 for 100 metal RediDrives but charge £6 postage, total cost £14.71 However as I only need 24 items it is still cheaper to buy the 100 which leaves me with 76 surplus items. As you say the better quality would enable more jobs to be done in the future, Blair

[Ian Stirling]

Because in many instances it may make no difference. Knowing when it might is of course the key.

[Paul Mc Cann]

There are fundamental differences between Titebond and PVA that could dictate which is chosen for a particular job.

Vanilla PVA is a fine glue and more than adequate for run-of the mill interior work.

[David Lang]

Hi Paul

I know what you mean, but Titebond scores over PVA in every aspect I can think of; initial bond, clamp time, strength, gap fill, clean up, sanding, staining, water resistance etc. Why would I bother with another glue?

OK it's twice the price, but how much do you use per job?

Dave

[Andy Dingley]

I've found it to have terrible shelf life. Anyone else found this, or have I just been unlucky / had old stock ? I'm storing it in the house, not frozen or overheated in the shed.

I use hide glue (hot or cold) for nearly everything, PVA for MDF and biscuits.

[David Lang]

Hi Andy

I'm using Titebond 11. Franklin say; Storage life 12 months in tightly closed containers at 75°F. I've not had a problem, but I use it a lot and buy the smaller bottles - Axminster are close by so it's easy for me to pop in.

Dave

[Paul Mc Cann]

I've found the same with shelf life.

Also its not much good with biscuits and the fast setting time can make an already stressful glue-up even more stressful.

PVA is fine for most work. If its going to be exterior then polyurethane (If only I could remember to ALWAYS put on the disposable gloves first)

If its for marine then two pack