Making a suspended timber floor

I was asking a few days ago about fixing batons to a concrete slab so I could have t&g floor inplaceof the screed floor. I now have to rethink my approach as the living room extenstion built some time before 1975 must have been built by a cowboy. I started to break up the screed and found it as about half an inch thick laid onto a load of old rubble, bricks bits of blocks and sand and ballast. This was about 6 inchs thick and underneath is some very rough concrete it looks just like old infill. There is no sign of any dpc. Now if I continue to dig all of this rubbish out and lay proper loists what size timber should I use. The joists in the rest of the house are 4x2. They are supported mid way across their span by a small retaining wall. The extension is 9ft 4ins wide, if I use 4x2 joists will they span the extension without support or should I consider a deeper joist.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin
Loading thread data ...

Why are you doing any of this? If you want a boarded floor all you need do is lay thin boards on the crete, ideally on a thin squishy layer. Then trim a half inch off the doors.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Whichever joists you decide on, you will need crossflow ventilation underneath them....4X2 would sag over 9ft, 8X2 would be better.

Reply to
Phil L

Use 4x2 on sleepers (wall plates on these over DPC). When you dig out, don't shear off the slate DPC if such exists and protudes in. Lay some DPM down and put a thin layer of muck over it.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

4x2 and a sleeper wall in the middle.. having just been surprised (!) by another post about DPCs etc. I went off 1/2 c*ck, thinking Kevin's extension was a bit older!
Reply to
Chris Bacon

The OP said that 'They are supported mid way across their span by a small retaining wall'. 4x2 should be fine over a 4.5' span surely?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Yes, if this were the case, but it isn't. They are supported underneath the main house floor on retaining walls, he wants to know if 4X2 will span nine feet....IME it will be like a trampoline. :-p

Reply to
Phil L

I agree. All this work is unnececary. To the OP: if you have now removed the rubble / screed / infill and are left with a concrete floor, just put your joists on top of this....you can get 5 inch or

6 inch timbers and lay them on DPC roll where they are in contact with the concrete....you'll still need ventilation underneath though.
Reply to
Phil L

I've since spoken to my brother who suggests that I may need to go as large as 8x2 but he is going to check the numbers.

Kvin

Reply to
Kevin

I need to remove more of he screed to be sure exactly what I've got but was somewhat alarmed not to fing any dpc except in the brickwork. With no dpc in the concrete I am not sure that there would be sufficient airspace to get a good airflow. It will be a pain but having got this far I don't think that it will be that much more to excavate the rubbish infill and do a proper job, to quote Scapheap Challange. Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

why?

ya lost me

Maybe best to get advice before starting next time.

not for 9'. 2x6 is nice and solid over larger distances than that. 2x3 is rather bouncy.

I still cant see why youre swapping a reliable maintenance free construction for one prone to rot. Putting insulation down and pour a crete floor back in. You have planned the insulation of your new floor?

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Hopefully the infill does not bridge any DPC there may be in the wall...

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Officially, 2.7m normally needs a 147mm (6") joist, with 450mm or closer spacing. If you are short of space, you can use a 122mm (5") joist, provided it is at least 50mm wide and spaced at 400mm or closer. However, this gives a maximum span of 2.72m, so is very marginal, depending on your exact measurements.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Just build a dwarf wall (sleeper) in the middle of the span, & use 4x2!

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Certainly that is one method. However, it would probably be simpler to just use 6" joists if there is room than faff around trying to get the rubble underneath suitable to bear the weight and then build the wall.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.