Mains socket under combi boiler - ok?

Never ever had that problem.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
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Nor me.

Reply to
Bod

Can't it go below but immediately to the left or right of the combi, where at least dripping or running water won't go straight on to it?

David

Reply to
Lobster

At least you won't have to wait long for the hot water to come through when you turn on the tap :)

On a similar note, I guess because the hot water from a combi is instantaneously heated, and not stored, it is as potable (drinkable) as the cold water used to feed it ?

Reply to
funkyoldcortina

Same here; no questions were raised and that was that. I suspect basically it's all fine until you get an antsy buyer with an arse-covering solicitor: it's the solicitor who may well raise it as a problem.

A remember selling on an ex-council house which had a flat concrete roof area out the back. The roof slab had been built into the cavity wall when the house was built (1950s?) with basically a large mortar fillet at the wall-roof junction, as it had been since day 1: it perfectly good condition and showing no signs of any leaks or weather damage.

Surveyor points out that it's poor building practice or something and that there should be lead flashing at the joint. Bloody joke; as having worked on the house myself and known it inside out, it wasn't exactly the worst issue he could have raised. Ultimately the result was I spent half a day and £50 or so on bunging some lead up there, and all was well. (Yeah I know, but a buyer's market at the time; with an antsy buyer/ares-covering solicitor combo, so a pragmatic decision on my part).

David

Reply to
Lobster

It's not that simple for me. I'm doing this under a building notice so the council electrician wiil have to pass the work. That's why I have to be sure it's done according to regs.

Reply to
clangers_snout

Possibly true, but could still leave you with a soaking wet plug to grab hold of.

Reply to
John Rumm

Usually yes.

Reply to
John Rumm

What about changing the socket for an *external fused switched spur*, they are waterproof? You'll lose the socket, but you'll gain a switch. Boilers must have a fused switched spur anyway.

Reply to
Bod

The OP wants a double socket for general kitchen use and is not after a power supply for the boiler.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Sorry, my mistake, I should've read the original thread.

Reply to
Bod

So much stuff seems to be written about part P - much of it verging on folklore.

Part P has no requirements for "qualification" as such - but that is a separate issue.

Controlled and notifiable jobs can be done by anyone regardless of their qualifications or technical competence. The notification aspect can be either by self certification if you are a member of a body that permits permits you to self certify, or it can be done under a building notice.

There is no remit within the legislation to allow someone to certify someone else's work for notification purposes unless they "supervise" the work.

This puts most LABCs in a difficult position since they frequently don't have staff with the appropriate skills to make a judgement, and have to pay for an external firm to inspect and report.

I think that could be more simply phrased:

"you will get away with it" - if we assume you are suggesting that one does the work oneself, and fails to notify the LABC.

(I did ask a local BCO a few years ago how many "electrical only" building notices they get... after some thought, he said "none so far!"). So either people have given up doing their own electrics, or the competent ones who are aware of part P simply ignore it, and the ones without a clue carry on regardless).

Solicitors have long since lost interest in it while conveyancing. Especially since its perfectly acceptable to say "I don't know" to any electrical questions along with "no I have not got any paperwork".

Reply to
John Rumm

In which case ask the BCO in question. Its not unknown for BCOs to have their own pet likes and dislikes that have nothing to do with the actual rules etc. (as long term readers will recall with bloody minded BCO and a cooker point!)

There is no regulatory requirement[1] that I am aware of to not put a socket under the boiler (and indeed boilers will frequently need a FCU in close proximity anyway), however common sense suggests one would avoid doing so if its easy to do so. In this case I would try to keep the suggested distance from the gas pipe etc if you can, but fit the socket since it sounds like that is the only place for it, and you need it.

[1] Save for the general requirement that accessories should be chosen so as to be appropriate for the location.
Reply to
John Rumm

Nor me. Sounds like you never clean the kettle and/or base.

Reply to
Scott

When I was ordering new windows from a local firm a few years back, they asked me who my BCO was, as depending on the answer, they would either fit or not fit trickle vents (apparently get it wrong either way and the windows would fail...)

David

Reply to
Lobster

Kids spill things and you don't know that the base is sticky until you try to pick the kettle up off it. It's a very infrequent event, but it has happened a number of times now.

SteveW

Reply to
Steve Walker

Maybe it's the other way around and they all have sticky worktops.

Reply to
ARWadsworth

Don't BG insist on them being fed from an unswitched socket outlet so that they can be seen to be isolated.

My understanding is that you are correct as it is a fixed apliance, but BG may differ.

Reply to
<me9

I fed mine from a DP switch with neon. I would still always turn off the MCB too...!

Reply to
Bob Eager

If it's a socket outlet, it must be unswitched. However, it can be (and more usually is) an FCU (double-pole switched).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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