I was looking for a mains powered smoke detector with a loop facility for an alarm accept switch. The alarm accept switch is to be a non latching switch. Don't want to annoy the neighbours when the toast is burnt.
Does it really have to be mains powered ? If you have an existing intruder alarm system there should a zone on it that will accept a smoke detector. This will also give a distinctive sounder alarm from the intruder side of the alarm. Another advantage is that the system will also have a battery back up.
"Z" wrote | I was looking for a mains powered smoke detector with a loop | facility for an alarm accept switch. | The alarm accept switch is to be a non latching switch. | Don't want to annoy the neighbours when the toast is burnt.
I don't know exactly what you mean by 'alarm accept' switch but The EI range sold by TLC have a ""Hush" feature for false alarm control by way of a separate hush button. Quietens unwanted alarms for up to 8 minutes and bleeps every 40 seconds to warn that alarm is in hush mode. Automatically resets."
Ionisation, optical and heat variants, up to 36 units interconnectable
Owain
In article , BigWallop writes
If it's not integrated to intruder system, yes.
You mean it will set off the outside alarm or the internal alarm?
I have an Everest intruder alarm system which I believe is based on a Bosch. Wouldn't the system have to be armed?
An intruder alarm with fire zone capability works like the tamper circuit. The zone is continuous for this specific purpose. It will only sound internally unless it has the option to sound all bells.
I have a fairly standard wired intruder alarm with fire zoning capability. I have this wired to mains smoke detectors. I have 2 ionisation types, 1 optical and a heat detector for the kitchen. I have never had a false alarm. Not once.
The devices are Kidde Slick, which look modern and are round (no careful alignment like square ones!). They are available in Alkaline backup, rechargable backup and no backup (don't use those). There is a surface mounted base with relay, which I wired up to an intruder alarm zone configured for 24h fire. This will be configured to ring the external sounder with a distinctive tone when I get round to installing the bell box. I didn't actually use the surface mounted base that comes with the relay, as I didn't want the things protruding so much from the ceiling. I detached the electronics from the base and installed them in a standard surface mount plastic box next to the intruder alarm along with a switch to turn off the interconnect for testing. All mains supplies for alarm systems are from a dedicated way on the consumer unit. IIRC, there was some sort of jumper setting for latching operation on the relay board.
Indeed, this very morning the system went off with burnt toast. But then, it had been on fire and subsequently filled the house with dense smoke. The toaster had got jammed down. I still can't believe they design toasters so that in the event of a jam (extremely common occurance) they set themselves on fire (extremely serious consequences).
You could use the Kidde Relay patress with Relay on the TLC site; works with their Slick smoke/heat alarms by sending a volt free signal when triggered. This is for signalling 3rd party devices, such as door closers/strobes/warden call systems/alarm panels etc
Hi,
Seems like a case of bad toaster design like mine, there needs to be an extra sprung lever holding the main lever down, so it's switched off positively when the toast is ready.
Still, a cheap Screwfix optical smoke alarm fixed with blue tack works well in such situations ;)
cheers, Pete.
You'r looking at it wrong. If your house burns down, you'll need to buy a new toaster.
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