Mains powered screwdrivers

Does anyone know of any mains powered screwdrivers capable of putting bog standard pozi-2 wood screws into timber? If i'm screwing parts together in the same place with a mains supply why would I want to charge batteries. Has anyone tried using an old battery as a plug and a wall-wort power supply to convert a battery drill into a mains drill? How much current would be required?

Reply to
Track Basher
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I understand where you are coming from!

Maybe you need to invest in a compressor and some pneumatic power tools.

Reply to
Graham.

If you have a reasonably powerful mains electric drill, say two speed gearbox and variable speed, you can use that. You need to be careful, you can easily overload it. And you may f*ck up the speed control. Not recommended by the makers!

Reply to
harry

Makita TD0101F Compact Impact Driver

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Reply to
polygonum

In message , Track Basher writes

You could use a TEK driver but they are 'king expensive.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

No, but I've taken the innards out of the battery for a 12v drill and wired the contacts to a cigar lighter plug - so that I can power it from the car or from a portable power supply.

The current is likely to be far more than your average wallwart can supply.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Yes, there are plenty of dry lining drivers that will probably do that. Makita and other also do mains powered impact drivers, and also screw guns.

Why would you want to be tethered to a lead? A decent driver and two or three bats will let you work continuously without much difficulty.

20A - 30A probably. Enough to ensure any PSU capable of hacking the current load is way too expensive.
Reply to
John Rumm

Probably a drywall screwdriver (takes any 6mm screwdriver bit) rather than a TEK driver (drives hex-head screws).

The disadvantage with either may be the clutch that is designed to disengage when the screwhead is level with the surface. That's just what you want for plasterboard, but with joinery you may want to force the heads under the surface. There is some adjustment, but in some applications you want to use a self-cutting screw and slam it as deep as it will go.

That Makita corded impact driver looks good, although the max impact torque is pretty low for that sort of tool - which may or may not be a problem depending on what size screws you will be driving, and into what.

There are the corded production-line type screwdrivers, but these tend to be high-speed low torque for the small screws/bolts found there.

If you're doing high volumes of identical screws, you could consider the Makita mains-powered autofeed screwdrivers. AIUI these tend to be a little temperamental, you have to get the combination of screws and settings just right, and not change them.

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Reply to
Dom Ostrowski

Isn't that what your rose countersink bit's for?

Reply to
Frank Erskine

absolutely excellent.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I bought a mains impact driver a few years ago, simply to take the strain off the batteries from the cordless one.

The cost of a mains impact driver is about the same as a single 3a/hr NiMh battery :-)

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I'd have thought should be fine for OP's standard pozi-2 description.

And in cordless, you are probably running below spec. a lot of the time as the battery will be at least partly discharged. With mains I'd expect it to be spot on all the time.

Reply to
polygonum

In message , Frank Erskine writes

I don't know the Makita but the TEK driver I hired had adjustable torque settings and did take a 6mm bit. Nice light tool but eventually you get fed up with the lead trailing across a roof.

I try to avoid fully threaded screws and drill a clearance hole if necessary.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

I have a Makita 14.4v impact driver & a Makita mains impact diver. Strangely, the spec says the torque is higher on the battery machine and it does seem to be in practice.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Am happy to believe that - but does that apply from "fully charged" through to "really needs charging", or do you actually tend not to let it get further than "might need a top up now"?

Reply to
polygonum

With lithium cordless stuff, the power seems to be constant until it "falls over the edge". Some cells now have charge indicators too.

A lot depends on exactly the application the OP has (Timber, mdf, chipboard? Pre-drilled? Length of screw?). If he's driving very long screws, a corded/cordless impact driver may not be thing - as the impact may be partially lost in axial flexure of the screw. In that situation a conventional screwdriver action may be better.

Reply to
Dom Ostrowski

An issue with the Makita corded is the lack of slow start. The last thing you need starting a fresh screw is no load and full torque available.

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Reply to
Tim Lamb

My ancient B&D mains hammer drill has a screwdriving facility - throw a switch and it runs at 50 rpm approx. And can of course be reversed. However, the design of mains drills (long) makes then less than ideal for one handed use. And screw driving isn't terribly hard on batteries anyway.

A cordless drill takes a lot of current at full power - such a mains supply wouldn't be cheap. Unless you could find a secondhand CB radio etc one. I'd guess about 20 amps would do it.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

First sign of low battery & I charge it.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Indeed... I could have bought a couple of them for the price of the three batts I just replaced! Still they lasted well, (getting on for 8 years) so I can't really complain.

Much depends on the exact nature of the job. Doing things like a deck you can probably get away with a lead without any real inconvenience. A more varied load of "mixed" jobs may better suit the cordless. Plaster boarding and flooring are probably ok with a lead as well since you are fixed in location anyway.

Reply to
John Rumm

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