Loft light - regulations?

Not a bad idea at all.

Until you're in the far corner of the loft and SWMBO decides to turn the landing light off because it's daylight...

Reply to
PCPaul
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My solution: a hatch-operated switch. Simple and effective.

Reply to
Mike Barnes

...but missing the point of this subthread... the issue was that my intended permanent feed turned out to be switched, so I've got to run the cable further to get to the nearest 'normal' lighting supply and tap into it.

But since you mention it, what do you use for the hatch operated switch, while keeping it safe from inadvertent touching?

Reply to
PCPaul

If a hatch switch is stuck on and there is nobody there to see it does it still make light?

Reply to
dennis

Dunno. Ask your meter.

Andy

Reply to
Andy Champ

Just to be damn annoying I can clap either hand. ;-)

Reply to
dennis

Yes.

Answer to a related question: use a fluorescent tube or CFL with a slow start. Then you can be sure, when you open the hatch, that the light has been off.

Reply to
Mike Barnes

Yes, I know... but I think the point had already been lost in the previous posting.

Photo at

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think I bought the switch from B&Q. It's operated by the downward- hinged flap. I see you can get them online here:

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Reply to
Mike Barnes

If they are on at the same time the bulb will blow first. If you don't fit a bulb, fitting one after the tube has blown will require a torch, etc. So why not just use that etcetera to change the tube?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I do this as well so I don't waste =A3's on electricity. The other way is to connect the fixed light to a long flex that goes through the hatch and plugs into a socket on the landing. It may not be fully compliant but it works and is only connected for short periods. It has to be unplugged to shut the hatch.

John

Reply to
John

Interesting, hadn't noticed those before.

However, I can see a few points against me using one...

- I don't like fixing anything into the loft opening since braining myself on a sharp edged push-on-push-off latch in the past.

- it's only rated 1A and 'not suitable for fluorescents' so it wouldn't do for this job - designed more for small cupboard lights than 8' tubes, I guess.

- I've already finished the job ;-)

Thanks anyway, though. Always useful to spot a new way to do stuff.

Reply to
PCPaul

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