I'm just about to put a fluorescent up in a loft.
I know perfectly well what to do (although I'm sure somebody on here will argue about that ;-) - screw 100W 8' fitting to rafters, wire 1.0mm T+E from junction box inserted into nearest upstairs lighting circuit to pull switch to fitting, job done.
However, I'm curious what the latest wiring regs and Part P etc. have to say about it.
AFAICS I don't have to notify anybody since it's not in a 'special place'.
Any other points to notice?
Also wire in a standard BC bulb holder (installed bulb optional) as well. When the tube goes, fiddling about in the dark trying to change it, or life without finding an immediate replacement - is no fun.
Well, I can always switch back to the inspection light on a long lead like I'm using now.
Having a BC fitting without a bulb always struck me as a bit dubious when groping around in the dark - the exposed mains terminals always worry me a little...
It's also not that huge a loft, so light from the trapdoor gives you enough to stagger about with. If it was a bigger loft I'd be putting two tubes in parallel, so either way I think I'm OK. Cheers for the idea, though.
Also, (the real reason), I haven't got one handy and I'm doing it *now* so I don't want to lose my momentum ;-)
Part P: not notifiable, but still a legal requirement that it is safe with regard to electric shock & fire risks. The fitting must be 'F' marked if it is to be fixed directly to a flammable surface. Internally don't allow the PVC cable to come into contact with the hot ballast.
17th edition: I can't think of any particular points. No need to add an RCD if the wiring is visible.Testing: test earth fault loop impedance at the light - or if you don't have a loop tester at least do an earth continuity test to the main earth terminal or to the earth of an upstairs socket to be confident that the fitting and the lighting circuit are earthed.
Usability: an 8 ft. fitting might not strike reliably in very cold conditions. Two 5 ft. or 6 ft. fittings could be a better option.
Sounds ok to me....
Part P - nothing special, you are extending an existing circuit and not in a special location or a kitchen - so the work is non notifiable[1].
The only other bit of regulation that I can think of that is worth paying attention to is making sure that the fitting and switch are appropriate for the location you are installing them in. So for example if the loft has no sarking and rain or snow can blow in on occasion, a suitable IP rated fitting/switch would be needed.
If your loft has purlins and you mount the light high and central you end up with very dark eves - since they are in the shadow of the purlins. I found additional smaller fittings under the purlins solved this.
[1] Judging by the general attitude to part P, all work is probably non notifiable! (or at least not notified)
Where would that marking be? Stamped on it somewhere?
Visible but not 'in your face' - just clipped to the back of various wooden bits as needed.
Will do
It's a 'warm roof' setup - foam sprayed onto the back of the tiles (don't blame me, it was already done!) so hopefully shoudn't get too cold or damp up there (this side of the foam, at least) :-(
Also, I got three 8' fittings for nowt off freecycle - so I could add another 8' if I get dark spots, but I think one will probably do the job.
With the ratings usually. Look for a capital F inside an equilateral triangle.
No problem there.
Ah, OK, ignore that bit then.
Damn. Fitted the light, run the cables, just about to insert the junction box in the permanent feed to the most convenient existing rose.
Turns out it's the landing light on a two way 3 core and earth setup from downstairs, with the fancy stuff done in the back of the switch, so there
*isn't* a permanent feed to that rose.Oh well, two silver linings:
- I hadn't yet trimmed the cable and I think it's long enough to reach the next rose along, a standard one in the bathroom.
- When I took the top-of-stairs switch off to check the wiring, two wires pulled straight out of one of the terminals. That would be why it blows stairs bulbs so often then...
Another point you might like to consider is that AFAIK 8' tubes are no longer manufactured. In schools the 8' fittings are being replaced with modern high effuciency 6' fittings which provide much more light. Also be aware that there are two 'flavours' of 8' fittings, each requiring its own type of tube - we have tubes (surplus from another school) which will not work in our fittings.
Malcolm
Fair enough - if I ever use all three of the tubes I have and can't get any more, I'll swap out the fitting. It will probably only get used every couple of weeks, so that should be a while yet...
Thanks for the warning
News to me. Google for 2400mm T12 lamp and you get lots of hits. Our friends at TLC list two
If the upstairs lights wiring run in the loft, that'll be the circuit you most want to work on in the loft. If you've wired the loft light into that circuit ...
I suggest dropping the cable down inside a convenient fitted wardrobe to where it can be spurred off a power circuit, using an FCU with neon to remind you it's on.
This will also increase the liklihood the fitting is RCD protected, as a tingle in the loft carries an increased risk of falling through the ceiling.
Owain
First, design and build a fitted wardrobe,
Second, ...
Um, 8' is a perfectly standard tube size, and common commercially.
I wonder if there's some confusion because the energy saving 8' tube is still T12 rather T8 in the UK? This might mistakenly lead people to think there's no energy saving 8' tube.
Original 8' tube is/was 125W. Thorn lighting developed the first energy saving fluorescent which was the 100W 8' to retrofit into the 125W fittings without changing the ballast around 1978. This was still a T12 tube -- it wasn't until energy saving tubes became available for the shorter fittings that they switched to being T8's, but the 8' one has remained a T12.
The original 100W energy saving tube would only run on switchstart control gear, and couldn't be started on semi-resonant start control gear which the better quality 8' 125W fittings used. I don't know if current 100W 8' tubes still have this limitation, but that could explain the incompatibility you see if your fittings are semi-resonant start control gear.
I see what you mean, but the upstairs mains runs in the loft too..
Currently I use a car inspection light on a long lead plugged in on the top floor. That'll do if I ever need to work on the lighting circuit. (Which appears to be a whole house circuit, by the way)
Where's the fun in that? ;-)
I have two sets of lights in the loft. one operates via the bathroom light (on the upstairs lighting circuit) and the other via the landing light (on the downstairs lighting circuit). This allows isolation of either lighting circuit without removing loft lighting. This is very useful if working on a light.
Feed them from the lamp feed of a light. then if you leave them on, they won't be on 24/7.
That's the problem isn't it, start what you think is going to be a simple job, end up with some exciting structural steelwork and living in a caravan for six months until the roof gets delivered from China.
Owain
Not to mention bloody Kevin Mcloud turning up and telling you it will never work but he admires your bravery...
:o)
I do sometimes wonder if we are actually saved from seeing a bloody Kevin Mcloud, headbutted whatever, after some of the disparaging questions and comments his producers have asked him to say to some obviously very stressed self builders...
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