loft ladder mistake

[skyblue]

due to blatant stupidity on my part I've managed to install a wooden loft ladder kit (similar to this

close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold. I can't turn the ladder to face the other way due to other constrictions so short of ditching the wooden ladder and installing a standard aluminium ladder (fortunately there is enough room in the loft to do this) do I have any other options? Can I turn the 3 folding sections into 4 or convert the ladder into a sliding one? Any helpful sugestions will be gratefully received. On the positive side I do have a nice new loft hatch, I just can't get into the loft.

TIA

skyblue

[meow2222]

too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold. I can't turn the

Its hard to be sure about any of this without seeing it up close... could you modify the hatch hinges/restraints so the hatch flap opens further? Would that give you enough room then?

You will of course need hatch restraints, otherwise the ladder folds up, but they their fixings can be moved, they might be replaced with towrope, have a very high strength hook arrangement to give them 2 positions, etc.

If you'd asked before doing it I'd have suggested making your own ladder, then you can make whatever works best in your space, at 1/10th the price.

NT

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold. I can't turn

Can we have a pic?

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Lobster]

too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold.

Not with you... looking at the picture, there's no part of the ladder which protrudes beyond the width of the hatch, so I can't follow what's stopping it from unfolding (and therefore can't really offer any advice)

David

[Paul Andrews]

> too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold.

I suspect that when pulled down, the unfolding sections pivot from the lower part of the ladder, so will be unfolding from about halfway along the hatch. They therefore need more clearance horizontally while unfolding. If you look at the illustration the hatch arms don't permit the hatch to be vertically down.

That's my theory.

Paul

[mcbrien410]

Is it possible to modify the last pivoting section of the ladder so that it is removeable and can be hooked in position once the top two sections have been unfolded.......... or, get rid of the bottom section and make a box that the upper section can land on. This box could have a step or two in it that can be at 90 degrees to the actual direction that you come down the ladder.

Chris.

[Kev]

It looks very much like the one I fitted bought from Costco. I'm not at home so can't check the fittings but why can't your remove the hatch bit and mount it 180 degrees around.

Kevin

[Kev]

Bloody hell, I've just scrolled down and seen the price. Who said that buying on the internet is cheap. Costco was about half that price 2 or

3 years ago.

Kevin

[Rob Morley]

too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold. I can't turn the

Can you not move the aperture so there's clearance to swing the ladder?

[Dave Liquorice]

They still are about that price at Costco as well...

As for the OPs problem I think the stepped box is probably the best solution. Provided the top of this box has at least 18" sq and clear of the ladder foot on the top stand and turn on.

[Kev]

Looking at mine last night I can't see why you can't remove the mechanism and hatch (not the frame) then mount it the other way round. You might have to screw in some threaded inserts as I seem to remember the hatch had T nuts that will now be on the opposite face to one exposed in the frame.

Kevin

[Antony]

too close to a wall so that the ladder doesn't unfold. I can't turn the

I have a similar one myself. They do take a lot of space (about 900mm) in front of the hatch to unfold. If you can't move/rotate the hatch, I'd suggest you keep the bottom two sections hinged together, but remove the top hinge. Get a couple of decently thick pieces of steel sheet about 6"x4" (or even better an angled piece e.g. 6"x4"x1") at least 3mm thick. You can permanently bolt these to the bottom part of the ladder, and then have some removable bolts/pins that join to the top section. You should be able to reuse the existing bolt holes in the timber. You could probably use 18mm ply instead of steel, if you prefer.

You'd need to find some safe way of retaining the bottom section, so it doesn't fall on you when opening the hatch...

-Antony.

[cs]

I can't offer any help with the installation mistake I'm afraid, just wish you good luck...

As to myself I'm looking around for a proper loft ladder and I'll probably go for one of Ladderstore's deluxe timber kits. Apart from the logistical issue of manouvering a 41kg kit 2.8m above the floor, installing it should just be a case of cutting the right size hole, screwing the frame to the joists, adjusting the length, and decorating appropriately? Right?

[Andy Hall]

I've fitted two slightly different versions of these in different places - slightly different spring mechanisms.

You don't need to lift the whole thing at once.

The bottom two sections can be removed from the top part usually with

4 bolts.

The top section can be removed from the frame/hatch assembly.

Screw two battens to the ceiling (into the joists) near the ends of where the frame will fit.

Offer the frame up through the hole and locate into place.

Screw frame to joists.

Re-attach the ladder sections, cutting the bottom one to the correct length.

This can all be done by one person with no heavy lifting.