In preparing for major decoration and re-carpeting, I've lugged an enormous amount of stuff either into the garage or the loft. I'm now considering whether to make the reverse job a bit easier by fitting a loft ladder. I used to have one at my previous house. This one though is a simple loose hatch (about 72 x 48 cm), which is pushed up and stowed when entry is required, via standard aluminium step-ladders.
Assuming I *can* fit one into the rather cramped space near the hatch, is it a matter of removing the 'supporting strips' underneath the present hatch cover, and fitting hinges plus a spring catch to it please?
I think you have got the idea ok. The problem you may have overlooked is the ladder. The usual one is a two part aluminium one that is hinged on one of the hatch boards. The ladder is reduced in length by a half and then pushed up into the roof and then lays flat on the ceiling in the roof. So if you can imagine a vertical of that length sticking up from the hatch into the roof, it must then be able to swing in an arc down onto the roof.
Mine mean I had to enlarge and move the hatch to get the ladder installed.
So, find a ladder, go home and work out if you can install it, go back and buy it, pray hard, install it.
I got mine from Wickes a few years ago. It extends in 3 sections so takes up less space in the loft. I seem to remember it came with all the bits you need including a handrail and a rotating latch for the hatch cover plus a long rod to turn it with.
Thanks for all those helpful replies. I'll also check if my local Homebase or Focus Do-It-All have any of the compact types. The Argos catalogues's single offering requires around a metre of free space, which rules that out.
I found that Ladderstore site last night. Had me drooling for the electrically operated version. Only £1,249.00! In fact the entire range is attractive, but pretty expensive.
Thanks. That's about the same as the HomeBase 3-section type I saw this morning. Unfortunately, snags in my case are that not only is the hatch small (72 x 48 cm), but the ladder will have to point along that
*shorter* dimension. IOW, that 48/50cm is the 'length', using the terminology of the various models I've seen. And apart from the limitation that places on my choices, it means that access becomes even more restricted than it is at present, when the ladder occupies some of that smallish rectangle. I *could* turn this into a major project, enlarging the hole and trying my hand at some carpentry. But that wasn't really what I originally had in mind!
Think I'd hinge both sides and rebate the rungs/steps into the sides a bit. You don't want a rung to fail and you end up sliding all the way down breaking each succesive rung as you heavyly land on it.
If you look at a timber ladder you find every third or so rung has a
1/8" dia wire underneath it this is to stop the run away effect if a rung breaks.
It is an interesting idea though. The ceiling below our loft hatch is the best part of 10' this is out of reach for most commercial loft ladders.
I cant work out what you mean there. I did however notice the diagram came out scrambled - lets try again
Well, here's what I was thinking. If you use 2x 3" screws on each side of each rung youve got protection against screw failure. The rungs on this design are of 2.5 x 1.5 wood, which is way thicker than traditional wood ladders. It is important to reject any wood with a crack in it. I thought those 2 features would be enough to cover it, but I gues it would take some load tests to check if it does, and if not, add either metalwork or wood reinforcement triangles under rungs. What do you think?
Right. Commercial ladders are made light though, whereas this design here has 2 to 3 x as much wood in each rung for simplicity and safety margin.
The one bit I would want to load test before being confident is the hinge fixings. Due to lever effects there would be very high forces on hinges and their fixings, and both would have to be very solid. The unhinged version of this has worked very well for me, but I've not used a hinged version. The only downsides being that wood ladders are heavier than ali and not so abuse proof. And must be kept indoors to avoid rot.
Ah you're looking at the side of the ladder I was looking at the face...
I was thinking more of timber failure, screws in end grain don't hold very well and can split out through the face under shear.
Thats why I'd house the ends of the rungs into the sides or screw bits of 1" sq under each one and to the rung.
That didn't worry me but then I was using a different hinge type to you... I think you are using a butt type with long flaps, I'm using a flat hinge, hum donno what you call 'em but two long flat bits of metal that run down each side if the ladder joined where they overlap to pivot.
Well a loft ladder will be inside unless it gets *very* windy. The weight would be a concern, so I'd maybe drop to 3 x 1 for the sides and 2.5 x .75 for the rungs.
afaik there would be no scrwes gripping end grain on this.
I'm not sure I'd put much faith in a 1" sq bit of wood with a holes in it. But in principle this seems the best option if the ladder fails (over)load tests. Mine passed though.
actually the weight was a non issue with mione, its not heavy at all, just not as featherlight as an ali one.
I dont think Id dare use 3/4" ungraded softwood meself, but if youre adding your rung supports that probably would work ok. Long as its tested.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.