Hi all. I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know how to go about it.
I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram.
Hope you will advise.
Thanks.
Arthur
|Hi all. |I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know |how to go about it. | |
For *storage* *only* just get flooring chipboard from a shed and lay it across the joists, fill between the joists with insulation first.
Making lofts into living space is a whole different ball game.
I couldnt read much of the text on the picture. In most cases, like Dave said just put chipboard down for storage. But wise to check joist sizes first. We'd need to know height width and unsupported span of them.
I'd add a light for storage use too.
NT
As DF said if it's only for storage use these. Smaller size means they go through the loft door, T&G edges lock them together.
I meant these :-)
|51 wrote: |> Hi all. |> I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know |> how to go about it. |>
|>
|> I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram. | |As DF said if it's only for storage use these. Smaller size means they go |through the loft door, T&G edges lock them together.
I moved, and increased the size of the hatch, and put in an aluminium loft ladder, which over the years has paid for itself many times over.
|On Sat, 18 Nov 2006 13:55:36 -0000, "51" | wrote: | |>Hi all. |>I should convert my unused loft for storage but I don't know |>how to go about it. |>
|>
|>I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram. |>
|>Hope you will advise. |>
|>Thanks. |>
|>Arthur |>
| | |What ever you do with the flooring I would definitely put electric |lighting in. I put in three lights all from same switch just inside |access hatch - means you can always see what you're doing; it is worth |doing before you put in the T&G loft flooring which others have |referred to.
Definitely, my one light is useless :-(
What ever you do with the flooring I would definitely put electric lighting in. I put in three lights all from same switch just inside access hatch - means you can always see what you're doing; it is worth doing before you put in the T&G loft flooring which others have referred to.
The message from Scream contains these words:
Or better yes, just outside the loft hatch with a neon on the switch so you can see when you've left the lights on. I fitted ours to the ceiling by the hatch. Convenient, but out of the way when you're not going into the loft.
As others have said just use normal chipboard down, but make sure there's enough insulation down first. A light or two will make things easier as will a loft ladder...on this note, there's a builder local to me who does little else but this type of thing, he has a 'package' deal which he advertises in the local press and also on his van, 15m2 of flooring, a loft ladder and electric lights fitted for £350, you may have something similar advertised in your local rag? - I certainly wouldn't go crawling about in fibre and dust, as well as driving back and forth to suppliers etc in an attempt to save a few quid...he's probably getting everything at less than half what it would cost me
Arthur An important question which no one else has covered is whether or not you have water pipes/cylinder/tanks in the loft space. If this is the case then you must not put the insulation in the joist spaces if there is going to be pipework above this. The reason being that the loft will then not get any heat from down below and you will run the risk of pipes is the loft freezing and bursting. All other advice is sound however, as is the insulation so long as the above is taken into account. Calum Sabey (NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544)
Great stuff. Thanks to all.
Arthur
The first thing you need to know is that the ceiling beams will take the weight you are going to putting in there. Chip board is rather heavy for your needs.
If you are going to store fairly litle or a lot of fairly light stuff then 3/8 boards will suffice. There is no need for much interlocking and no need for joist noggin supports either -as long as you tread carefully.
A couple of zinc plated well greased, pre-drilled 1" tens in each board will stop it walking. I advice grease as you might want to remove them one day. If you can get laths up there you can screw 2 x1's or even 2x
2's alongside the joists to strengthen them.I imagine that would be a right pig of a job though.
They will be 3 x 2's and really unsuitable for anything more than holding up the lath and plaster. You might want to consider reinforcing the lath and plasterwork with a pour of skim from above?
Why not buy a shed?
How large a size of board can you get up there? You could cut a ply board into strips that will go up easily enough. And they will have the advantage of reaching across all the joists which will e in imperial not metric.
I think I will have to bring down the (front bedroom) L & P ceiling at some stage as it doesn't look very sound. The area above this ceiling is where the best headroom is so when I bring it down I might strengthen the joists.
Arthur
Looking at local prices that's £60 for chipboard, £70 for the ladder & maybe £10 for the ekectrics. So £140 materials, leaving £210 for no more than a days labour IMO.
What area is 'local' to you? In SE England a bit more would be acceptable maybe?
Sounds like a good little earner to me?
Indeed. If possible box pipes into chipboard trunking stuffed with rockwool.
If I were you I should do that first. This will allow you to do something to the joists before you aggravate the problem by putting things in the way upstairs.
If you screw batons the full distance top to bottom along the joists you will find it easier to plasterboard and floor. It will allow you to put stuff in the attic ready too. As well as permitting the adding of another access point if needed.
Plasterboards are metric sizes unless you can get hold of imperial by special order. So you are going to have to cut every so many boards to suit. The reinforcing will probably save you this trouble.
Seal the door with duct tape. Prop a strong sheet under about three or four joist runs or screw though it with batons to hold it. Go into the loft and saw through the laths after lightly damping it. The plaster will drop into the sheet and can be removed with fairly little dust. But there will still be a lot of it.
It will make an excellent soil conditioner for clay soil though.
| snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: |> Arthur |> An important question which no one else has covered is whether or not |> you have water pipes/cylinder/tanks in the loft space. If this is the |> case then you must not put the insulation in the joist spaces if there |> is going to be pipework above this. The reason being that the loft will |> then not get any heat from down below and you will run the risk of |> pipes is the loft freezing and bursting. All other advice is sound |> however, as is the insulation so long as the above is taken into |> account. |> Calum Sabey |> (NewArk Traditional Kitchens 01556 690544) |> |Indeed. If possible box pipes into chipboard trunking stuffed with |rockwool.
My tanks in the loft are boxed with 2 inch Polystyrene with an uninsulated gap underneath to allow bedroom heat to rise and prevent freezing. Worked fine for me :-)
|>
|> I think all of the relevant information is on the diagram. |>
|> Hope you will advise. |>
|> Thanks. |>
|> Arthur |>
|>
| |Great stuff. Thanks to all.
Stick with the thread for a while longer, good stuff may yet appear.
I had the idea of converting to living space a long time ago but dropped the idea. My slate roof has no lining of any kind so I assumed I would have to make the loft more water proof by felting or something.
Arthur
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