Lining paper - centre on chimney breast or not?

[Lee]

Hopefully a simple question...

Chimney breast is 139cm wide and normally I centre the first strip when using 50cm wallpaper. I'm not really convinced this looks right, but it's easier with wrapping the edges. This time going to line and paint and have some 70cm lining paper and wondering if it's going to look better to centre the join?

What's the panel's opinion? Let's assume two things, I wouldn't even attempt to hang any paper horizontally and I doubt my paper hanging and filling skills are sufficient to render the join completely invisible...

Oh, and naturally neither of the two sides of the chimney breast are as plumb as they should be ;)

Lee

[Martin Bonner]

Given that 70x2 = 140, you are going to have 5mm wrapping round each edge. That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

[Lee]

That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

Good point, hadn't properly considered that. Though the central strip method would leave me 35cm to wrap around a less than plumb wall- and the depth of the chimney breast is only 34cm. Depends on how neatly I can manage to cut it into the internal corner.. If I try to run it on without cutting, the plumb line will be miles out within a few strips :(

Lee

[Chris J Dixon]

That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

Isn't the usual technique to cut strips so that they just wrap sufficiently round the corner for you to make a neat overlap joint. To put it another way, wrapping a long way round any corner (internal or external), especially if the alignment is suspect, is not a good idea.

[Pause whilst I go and look at one I did >5 years ago]

Yes, that's about it. By the time it is painted, the joints really don't show a great deal.

Chris

[SteveW]

That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

If you then use a rolling cutter or a very sharp knife to cut right down the joint, peel back and remove the excess from both sides, it'll be a nigh on invisible joint.

SteveW

[fred]

That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

Lining paper should be hung horizontally

[Chris J Dixon]

If, like the OP, you are painting it, then this is pointless.

Chris

[Lee]

Maybe I'm just cack-handed or something, but even with a new knife I've never managed to do this successfully. Sounds very easy in principle...

[Lee]

This is fairly thick lining paper so overlap joints are likely to be quite raised. I've heard of people doing this and sanding the joints though, so maybe this is an option too.

Lee

[stuart noble]

You're not alone mate. It's never worked for me either, and I've been trying for 30 odd years on and off. Closest I've got is using a curved camping knife (name escapes me but French IIRC). This avoids the problem of the blade tip tearing the paper and it's a soft steel so can be quickly sharpened

[The Natural Philosopher]

Modellers scalpel with a FRESH blade. wash in water to remove paste every few inches.

A fresh blade will slice through wet tissue paper cleanly, as us old fashioned modellers know

[S Viemeister]

I use disposable razor knives and a metal straight-edge - a new blade (the snap-off type) every few cuts when doing ceiling edges. I always use a new blade when doing wall corners. It takes a bit of practice, though. Rolling cutters can be okay for long bits along the ceiling, but I'd still need to use a razor at each end.

[Davidm]

Overlap the two lengths of paper by 20mm or so, then use a longish steel straight edge and one of these snap off blade triming knives to cut right through both layers down the middle of the overlap. Peel off the top strip, turn bacl the other edge and peel off the underneath strip, smooth back down again. May need to brush in a bit more paste if it's started to dry out. Perfect butt joint.

Snap off the end of the blade frequently to get back to a sharp point. I reckon to use four or five blades when doing an average room, but they are cheap as chips. Homebase sometimes sell a pack of three knives for £1, cheaper than buying replacement blades!

I always use this method when joining around or above window reveals, even on patterned paper.

[S Viemeister]

+1

[SteveW]

That doesn't sound enough to me. I think I'd put on a central strip, and then wrap strips round each edge.

Only if you are going to then paper over it, not if you are just going to paint it.

SteveW

[SteveW]

A fresh, new rolling cutter does most of it, while you can buy specific wallpaper blades for Stanley knives to finish the two ends.

SteveW