Greetings. I'm from Arizona and am looking alternatives to residing my house. I own a 1930's bungelow with badly dry-rotted wood siding. Having seen several attractive lime-rendered homes while in Ireland, I'm curious if it would be practical for my wood-sheathed house. Would battens need to be used? Hair? &tc. Most of the information I've come across is for rendering over stone or brick.
I plan on doing the work myself.
Thanks in advance.
Lath & plaster is very common here. Lots of old L&P ceilnigs are over a century old. The plaster is normally lime. The laths are traditionally very thin strips of wood, lots and lots of them in parallel. EML is the main modern equivalent, as nailing hundreds of wood strips up is slow. The lime must overlap the lath to hold secure, as it does not adhere. Thick animal hair was traditionally used in the lime to improve crack resistance and extend lifetime. Human hair clippings are a poor alternative, weak and greasy in comparison. Some L&P has no hair content, some has.
You will of course have fixed the water problem first.
NT
Lath & plaster is very common here. Lots of old L&P ceilnigs are over a century old. The plaster is normally lime. The laths are traditionally very thin strips of wood, lots and lots of them in parallel. EML is the main modern equivalent, as nailing hundreds of wood strips up is slow. The lime must overlap the lath to hold secure, as it does not adhere. Thick animal hair was traditionally used in the lime to improve crack resistance and extend lifetime. Human hair clippings are a poor alternative, weak and greasy in comparison. Some L&P has no hair content, some has.
You will of course have fixed the water problem first.
Insulation can be incorporated into the lime, either polystyrene beads or better, blown mineral beads.
NT
Not quite sure what you are wanting - rip te old stiff off? Or render over..
Anyway, the proper way to turn a feather edge into a render job is rip the cladding off, install insulation if there is none, plate the thing up with exterior grade ply, put some semi-permeable paper over that, nail horizontal battens on that, and metal lath on THAT, and render to the lath with a nice airgap. And leave it open at the bottom with a drip bead on. Where the timber structure meets the normal brick plinth.
You need the ply to stabilise the structure and the paper stops any rain getting to the ply, and allows any moisture out..the airgap is a secondary line of defense and the render/lath is a modern way to do waht lathe and plaster used to do.
You don't need to use lime render either...a plain cement one will be OK. You have already allowed for breathing with the paper and the airgap..the structure has shrunk all it ever will and with ply mailed up it ain't gonna move no more, so the lime mortars ability to cope with slight movement is not required.
Otherwise the trad method would be to simply nail horizontal hazel or chestnut lath on the frame, and stuff lime mortar and horsehair all over the place. Be my guest. Won't look any better and will be less waterproof.
How.
What is "residing a house"?
I have seen "plaster and lath" used on the gable end of buildings, often pebble-dashed, presumably as a cheaper alternative to brick.
Re-applying a finish to the sides of the house? As in re-siding? I had to think about it for a while. Don't they call aluminium cladding "aluminum siding"?
Sounds sort of logical...
Dunno. Sounds interesting, though - anodised, I should think?
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