LightwaveRF Magnetic Switch - Outdoors?

[polygonum]

Have decided to go down route of controlling outdoor lights manually/remotely rather than using a PIR. But would like one thing - that they come on when opening back gate. The obvious thing is to use one of their magnetic switches - but they are only rated for indoors. Damn them!

Has anyone actually used one of these? Does it seem feasible to somehow protect it and successfully use it outdoors? It is not the most exposed location - but it could easily get rain over it.

This is the final step - the lights that have arrived work and are fitted. The LightwaveRF switch works. The remote controls work. If we can simply get the lights to come on if we open the garden gate, I shall be happy.

[fred]

In article , polygonum writes

I imagine the active part will have batteries that need changing so not something that you can cover in goop.

I'd seal it in a heavy duty poly bag or DPM, maybe with some silica gel desiccant and fix it with screw/clamp fixings rather than through hole fixings that would pierce the waterprooofing plastic.

At those sort of prices it's certainly worth a punt.

The alternative is to put it in a waterproof plastic box but you'd probably need a stronger magnet to activate it given the extra distance between sensor and actuator.

[polygonum]

You are saying the sorts of things I have been thinking. Thanks.

[harryagain]

The simple solution is to buy a standard PIR switched light. Why mess about?

[Bill]

In message , harryagain writes

Definitive switching is always good, if the light comes on the gate has been opened. As opposed to the neighbours cat, dog, fox etc has wandered past.

On the spec' there is talk of a maximum gap of 10mm between the magnet and the sensor, so I would imagine that you could put the complete unit into a weatherproof plastic box and still get the gap less than 10mm.

[dennis]

Just put it in a weatherproof plastic box.

[polygonum]

Because I want to. Which in my book is sufficient reason.

We had a satisfactory PIR lamp for a number of years. When that failed two replacements failed to work for us. Could not get a combination of sensitivity, selectivity and suitable position which did what we want. Either came on too easily, or didn't come on when needed. If I got that right, the light from it did not adequately light the bits we want lit - or was pointing in our eyes.

So, thinking about things, I decided that manual control made a lot of sense. With the proviso that they will come on automatically when the gate is opened. Some nice small LEDs. Low voltage. Waiting for last couple to arrive.

[Graham.]

I imagine this would be ideal.

[alan]

The plastic of the original case probably isn't very tolerant of UV light and may become brittle and crack up in a short period so putting it in another waterproof/lightproof box may be a good idea.

[Dave Liquorice]

If looks aren't important the clip lock food containers, with sealing ring in the lid, are cheap and sturdy and allow non-tool access to change batteries. I'd drill a small hole in the bottom edge to give a little ventilation and let any condensation drain out.

You would have to fix it to the gate post from within the sealed area though. The fixings for a proper IP65 enclosure are more likely to be outside the sealed space.

[polygonum_on_google]

The Berlin server appears to be playing up. Apologies for replying by GG.

Don't think that would switch the switch! But thanks.

[Bill Wright]

I did all my gates using the RS ones intended for roller shutter door sensing. They are, surprisingly, waterproof. Warning, this was years ago, things might have changed. I used the sensor to feed two timer relays. One held the floodlight on for a fixed period. The other fed a buzzer, which the timer activated in short buzzes every twenty seconds as long as the gate was open. This was to serve as a constant reminder that someone had wedged the gate open and thus the dogs might escape.

Bill

[Bill Wright]

These switches are greatly affected by nearby metal.

In my previous reply I forgot that you wanted a wireless solution. Mine were/are all hard wired.

Bill

[Bill Wright]

That's similar to the ones I used. BTW if you need to increase the distance between switch and magnet don't use the magnet supplied. Use some of those super-powerful ceramic magnets. I think TLC do a box of five for £12.

Bill

[polygonum]

Luckily, I think it will be fitted on the north side of the gate - nicely shaded. But still a good point.

[Mike Barnes]

And if you're concerned about the distance from the magnet, you might be able to take the guts out of the supplied box first.

[polygonum]

Haven't got one yet (currently out of stock at most sources) - but judging by their other kit I doubt that is feasible without more effort than it is worth. But could yet be useful.

[harryagain]

You can get ones that adjust for target size and some that ignore dog/fox sized targets.

[Brian Gaff]

Blimey, sounds like a job for a good old microswitch and actuator arm to me... I had my fill of magnetic switches, hall effect or otherwise when I tried to use them for an alarm outside... Brian

[dennis]

Magnetic reed switches have been used in alarms for decades without problems. There is only the security aspect to worry about and you can fit two reeds to make the alarm sound if someone puts another magnet there in an attempt to fool the alarm system.