Gave it a bit of a hammering today. Cutting 15mm Contiboard. I'd guess the very thin blade is easier on the battery. Wonder how well it will last. But a very useful tool for when cordless is handy - like putting up shelves in a lockup garage with no power. Was quite surprised how long the battery lasted.
Did you find it 'strange' how quickly (if not surprising) it went from 'running perfectly' to 'dead' (assuming it happened like that with you), or are you just more familiar with Li-ion powered tools than me?
I was working in Mums garden with the circular saw, jigsaw and drill (Lidl) and whilst I had power out there (I needed it for the belt sander) it was nice to be free of power cords (as I was reminded several times whilst using the belt sander) and none of the tools seemed to struggle.
I think I might look for a finer blade for the circular saw as daughter and I used it on some (old) polycarbonate sheet and it was cracking and splintering quite a bit.
Yes, probably (over)discharge protection of the cells etc. It's just it went from what sounded and felt like full power to off with no warning (slowing) at all.
I was thinking more 'fine' (as in teeth) than 'thin' Dave, assuming there would be one with the right size (diameter and hole)?
Li-on batteries must not be over discharged and protection is usually built in to prevent that. The result is that unlike NiCads which exhibit a taili ng off of power Li-on devices tend to stop suddenly this is true for my Dew alt combination drill and a floodlight I have.
Also creating less sawdust. For portable saws the problem would probably be the possibility of binding although with anti kickback and safety clutches in more expensive saws that may be less of a problem.
My AEG mains circular saw doesn't have a riving knife, but that never seems to cause a problem. Perhaps modern TCT saw blades are less subject to kickback?
It doesn't have a safety switch either, where you press a button before you can pull the trigger. You just pull the trigger, which is in a separate part of the handle.
They're likely to be, because the teeth are usually a lot thicker than the body of the blade. Basically they stick out. Howver I'd imagine theres only so far you can go with that if you want a thin but rigid blade. Basically they'll probably stick out a lot less, if at all, with a really thin blade.
And also kickback won't be a problem providing you keep the saw straight in the cut rather than twisting it. Although if you know what you're doing, and know what forces to expect its possible to cut (fairly wide) curves in sheets as well. Not that many people would need to.
Best to make sure you keep it straight then.
Rather than slicing your leg off, a wrist injury as it flies out of your hand, is the more likely outcome. Don't ask how I know that. And whatever you do, never tie back the blade guard with a bit of string.
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