Thanks for all opinions.
The reason for the laminate, I've got experience of laying it and I haven't found a tile that I like (within my budget).
If I were to rip up the floor, waht would be involved?
Thanks
Anything with a round profile
Huh?
Once again.
- The existing floor is neither level nor flat.
- Reducing the high point would reduce the floor to below that of the surrounding rooms necessitating adjustments to be made to them.
- Replacing the floor would permit one that is on the same level as the surrounding rooms, level in itself (as in bubble central in spirit level all over), and by definition, as a result, flat.
I'd call it kind. A better solution would be not to buy it in the first place.
I suppose that they are willing to accept the scratches, dings, clicking and swelling of the joints. Personally I wouldn't......
I don't really want to see plastic floors with a pattern repeat covered in scratches and dents.
It's worth spending the time to look. Try a variety of places, including trade ones, not just the DIY stores and volume warehouses.
For a recent project involving a cloakroom, I spent more time selecting and sourcing tiles than any other part of the project.
Normally something like a Kango hammer to break it up and then some graft to remove the lumps.
Thanks.
What depth should I go down to.
And what about replacing what I've dug up? Materials, mixes, etc.
Sorry I'm completely ignorant about such matters.
I'm confused here. You already have a concrete floor in your kitchen. It appears uneven only so far it is higher at one point than the other. Floor levelling compound only fills the immediate low points, it doesn't level the floor as such. 1" out in a few feet is normally regarded as level for all intents and purposes.
Why do you need to replace your floor?
Apparently because spherical objects may not remain stationary if placed on such a surface. Indeed, items such as fruit and vegetables, may behave similarly. Such unpredictability is, frankly, unacceptable.
So would tripping over at a step to another room......
And unless and until the OP explains further, no-one can really understand the problem and advise appropriately.
Is it a thin concrete layer that was put down very badly?
Has someone mixed concrete on top of a perfectly good slab and left it to dry?
Has a substantial slab tipped due to movement of the house?
Has the slab moved relative to the walls?
Is it a new or an old building?
Is the existing floor insulated?
What lies beneath the floor (e.g. cellar, chalk, clay, rock)?
Do any services run through/under the floor? (Drains, water, CH, gas, electricity.)
Is there a back door to think about?
Any chance of some photographs posted somewhere?
if you drop an apple or a ball on a perfectly level floor it will bounce and roll...
are you planning on having the world marble championship on your kitchen floor? or golf?
ledges at doors are a tripping hazard. BAD
a little slope might be good if water leaks on it
uneven floors however would puddle..
maybe kitchen floor should slope towards the middle so there arent puddles under the units etc making unnoticed dampness and mould
maybe you should dig an exploratory hole somewhere where you wont fall in it and see whats under the concrete.
maybe itd be worth insulating it.
maybe its already insulated, or dry underneath.
if its damp underneath then maybe a damp membrane would be worth doing, if dry then not.
depends on if the land is lower outside the house, and on many other things
interesting - ive got a kitchen floor to look at some time...
[george]Actually, I was being a bit (very) optimistic about the inch. The floor actually drops 3.5 inches over a 3 metre length.
My wife explained to me what an inch was. Apparantly she lied!
Ouch!!
I feel that sort of gradient would be a bit noticeable. I have a policy that if it looks level it probably is, however with a slope like that I'd be tempted to build it up to make it nominally level. Rather than have a step, have a faster slope down into the next room. Not sure what else I'd do?
To answer some questions (and to ask some more):
No plans at present, though this could change.
How can I tell?
How can I tell?
Don't think so, there are no signs of movement.
How can I tell?
Built 1950s, though it has been extended. The kitchen looks like it is built from blocks.
How can I tell?
I'm presuming clay/rock.
I'm pretty sure there aren't any, though I can't be 100%
No
How can I post the photos?
Cheers
In message , Tim writes
If you want something REALLY flat
the atmosphere in any german bar would take some beating at the moment
Are you sure it wasn't you? Oh no. That would be the other way round. Probably.
I think that you are going to need to look at this on a more complete basis, measure up and do some proper assessment. This is beyond a bit of tweaking and filling, I think.
However, it's not horrendous either.
Wot, no Ein Prosit.?
Just an eins zu null ...
Oktoberfest - Yuck
Quite.
I went to it once. Just the once. I think I went into the Loewenbrau tent.
At any rate, it was a production line. There was a tanker parked at the back with a hose about the size of one on a petrol tanker. This connected to the row of taps at the back of the bar whiich were pretty much solidly on - i\d guess about 20.
At the other side of the business, there was a building at the back with a lengthy urinal and people were supposed to shuffle sideways as they tiddled. This was to maintain the flow of traffic.
I'm not sure whether the loop was closed back to the tanker.
We HAD to go, a sort of departmental ritual, relatively easy from Nuernberg
We got on the wrong train going back and ended up pissed as farts at 5am in Regensburg
I still made it into work on time - a true contractor ...
with an little old woman sitting there collecting your 20 pfennigs
Seems a shame when every town and village south of Wuertzburg has it's own Kirchweih which is far friendlier and more fun
Erlangen bergkirchweih was one of the best
Aah halcyon daze ...
I've just replaced a kitchen floor, dug out the old concrete down 7", and provided sand, insulation, dpm, new concrete. It is quite a job if like me you haven't done it before. In retrospect, I'd do this: Get a good 6 foot spirit level. Put one end on the high point of the floor, and the other end at the lowest point that it'll reach. Prop the level at the lowest point with bits of wood until the bubble is in the middle. Measure the distance you've had to raise it. This is accurate. If it really is 2" over 2m, you need to renew the floor. If it's less than an inch over the whole floor, comprimise. Use screed or self levelling compound to get it close to 1/2 " . Raise the floor in the adjacent roomr by half the distance by putting an extra layer of insulation on it before the carpet/wood/laminate finish. The steps at the 2 thresholds will be negligable.
What are the length and width of your kitchen?
To
Ah yes. ObPissup. The teutonic way.
It was the production line efficiency of it all that amused me.
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