LED downlighters - 12V or 240V?

[ARW]

"These drivers should not be used with dimmable led bulbs"

[Lobster]

OK, reckon I'm going for 240V LEDs...

However, I note that almost all these 240V connectors/adapters (including those in the above link) make no provision for a CPC; although there are a few around which do so - eg:

What's the regs and/or best practice on this issue, given that these are always exposed metal downlighters? Most of the downlighters sold for

240V use that I can see online don't appear to be earthed.

In my own case, I have particularly low ceilings and can easily change the downlighter lamps while standing on the floor (ie including the potentially wet, tiled kitchen floor) - is that what would make a difference?

Thanks

[ARW]

It depends on your existing downlights.

Any chance of a couple of photos of your existing lights? And preferably one that has been removed so I can see the back of it. It may not need an earth.

BTW did you notice that it's 230V not 240V in my replies?:-)

[Lobster]

Here you go:

Must admit I thought mine had that little metal strip connecting a terminal block to the downlighter (like in the above ebay link), but evidently not; must be in other ones I've wired up elsewhere. Is that what makes the difference earth-wise?

- Ah OK, 230V it is, then!

[ARW]

A tricky one to call. The leads for the 230V GU10s are not double insulated BUT they are not passing through the metal fitting.

I would fit the 230V LEDs without worry if they were my lights.

[Lobster]

Thanks Adam - am going shopping!

[Man at B&Q]

LEDs *should* be driven by current, not voltage.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

Not if it's a switch mode "stepdown system".

And where do you think the 12V comes from?

MBQ

[ARW]

So why do they sell constant voltage drivers?

[Man at B&Q]

I don't know, but LEDs are current driven devices.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

Probably talking at cros purposes.

The LED lamps will have extra circuitry, since no LEDs actualy run on

12V.

MBQ