I have to build an MDF box section to bring my wall forward to accomodate a close coupled toilet, the soil pipe is set in concrete 4 inches too far from the wall, I need to tile the full surface of the box section, whats the best way to leave access to the stop tap.
I would get a push button remote operation stop tap. or relocate the tap
mrcheerful
I've been thinking about the same problem prior to starting a refit of our downstairs loo.
The favourite idea so far is to fit a second remotely controlled stop tap immediately downstream of the original, then cut a hole in the mdf smaller than the size of the tiles to provide access to the original stop tap. Finally, when tiling, attach the tiles that overlap the hole with small dabs of acrylic sealer which is also used to grout these tiles. The idea is to use the remote stop tap for general use and emergencies, but to cut out the soft 'grout' and remove the tiles if access is ever needed to the main stop tap.
I have used a similar technique in a couple of bathrooms to provide access to enclosed pipework and it seems to work. The only snag is that you have to document it somewhere for future owners as you cannot tell which tiles are fixed with adhesive and which with sealer once the job is finished.
Hope this helps,
Roger.
... snipped
I've been wondering about doing something similar but haven't any experience of these "remote control" valves. I don't like the idea of an electric one (in a power cut you either lose water if it's normally closed and may get wet if it's normally open), how do the others work?
This has always puzzled me too - eg Screwfix ref 33580 - says it's powered by water pressure alone, no electrics or batteries, but it has what looks like an electric switch apparently at the end of a long cable!
David
I never like to totally tile over things without leaving access.
I would leave a small access hole with a nicely screwed panel over it (could also be tiled if nessary - use Gripfil or similar instead of tile adhesive and don't tighten the screws too tight onto the tiles).
Or you could make the whole box section so that much of it can be removed if necessary. In my experience, there will always come a time when you will be glad you left good access to either water or electical services.
HTH Rob
Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
The remote stop tap is not a bad idea but i have nowhere to locate the switch, the removable tile sounds good, how well does the acrylic compare to the surrounding grout for looks.
Do you really need to box the whole wall out to match a loo? Placing a small boxed section behind the cistern only should be just as good I'd have thought. Keep the top of the little boxed section just below the lid of cistern not to hinder it, and the bottom of the boxed section to the height of the coupling point between cistern and bowl. You could even make the top as a shelf to hold all the smellies and sprays and things behind the cistern.
Tile the sides, and the top as well if you like, to match the walls and you should have a fancy outset cistern that no one else has. A lot cheaper and easier to do than boxing the whole wall out because of new loo set up. Or would it be even easier to cut the floor and move the soil pipe back a few inches?
I'm pretty sure you'll find it's a Bowden cable of some sort, i.e. like a bicycle gear cable or a car clutch cable.
You can't see any difference - hence the need to keep a sketch of it somewhere!
Roger.
No they are a variation on the "torbeck" type valve. The cable is a simple tube and the switch lets the air out allowing the valve to snap shut under the water pressure. I think... Google should find the relevant web site but I'm not sure how much detail it goes into.
That's an idea I have toyed with, the expense is not an issue, a bit of mdf, Im going to tile the wall anyway. One more thing, after I have boxed in this area, how do I secure the soil pipe right angle coupling so I can push the loo into position without forcing it out of the soil pipe as I push it back.
message snipped-for-privacy@individual.net From: Richard ( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) Subject: Leaving access to stop tap behind tiled surface
Usual solution is an unscrewable panel thats tiled.
NT
Could you replace it with a quarter-turn lever type and then arrange a means of moving the lever through the tiles? a couple of lightweight chains perhaps?
I am in exactly the same situation. I solved it by using a quarter turn service valve with the screw turn pointing at the nearest tile and a small hole drilled in the tile, allowing insertion of a screwdriver through the hole, into the valve.
It takes a few seconds to engage the screwdriver but works well and the hole is inconspicuous.
The "P" to "S" connector should slip over the bowl outlet with no problems. Fit the connector into the floor first, then you can get your bowl connected to it by holding the connector with your hand and pushing the bowl in. It should be very simple, really.
No, it's a pair of small bore plastic pipes in a PVC sheath - it works hydrostatically - the rocker uses the mains pressure to close a diaphragm valve and when the pressure is released, by operating the rocker in the other direction, it is allowed to re-open.
Do they stay "off" if the mains pressure is lost and restored? ISTR that they used be not recommended as the only shutoff device...
Lee
OK, I was only guessing how it worked from the pictures I'd seen.
I'm surprised it's not a mechanical (as in Bowden cable or similar) device as the actual method depends on there being some water pressure to make it work. Do they work OK on a pipe with only a small head from a tank in the loft for example?
Thats a good idea
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