Lead free fittings

I've noticed these becoming more generally available now ( I know the electronics industry has a dead line for going lead free and the problems they are having with it ). Is it the same case as with electronic components that you need higher temperatures for lead free solder ring copper fittings and if so will my existing butane powered diy blow lamp be up to the job ? Also, can copper pushfit connections be used close to the boiler ? Our combi reaches really high temps and has melted clip on plastic pipe covers at the rads on the 1st floor above the boiler !. I want to add a rad in the new extension next to the boiler and with pushfit it would be a pretty quick job.
--
Pete Cross



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Yes, but it isn't a problem. I've never used leaded solder for plumbing. The lead free stuff works just fine.

You should use copper pipe for the 1st metre from the boiler, unless the pipe manufacturer and boiler manufacturer agree that plastic may be used. You should turn down your flow temperature if it is melting stuff. For the specific question on copper push fit, check with the individual manufacturer that the 'O' ring and any other internal components will be OK next to the boiler.
Christian.
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Grant supply push fit with there external combi boiler for use within the casing. So 20cm from divertor.
On Wed, 22 Oct 2003 14:34:22 +0100, "Christian McArdle"

Lawrence
usenet at lklyne dt co dt uk
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fittings
The
but you may find it harder work if your blowtorch isn't as macho as Chris' ;-)
-- John Stumbles -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+ -+ procrastinate now!
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Yes, I would heartily recommend a beefy torch with piezo ignition. It is one of those things not to economise on, like pipe benders. ;-)
Christian.
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Christian McArdle wrote:

Never use benders, but 100% agree on the torch.
It also lights fires and barbecues, and cigartters when SWMBO has hal inched the last of the lighters and dropped it mindlessly in er andbag.
She uses it for creme brulee as well.

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Oh yes. You can't light a barbecue any other way. Put down about 20 firelighters. Cover with charcoal, leaving ventilation holes near them. Light with plumbing torch, starting at rear. After 10 minutes, use firelighter Mark II (cheap burgers on the grill which spit hot fat into the fire. Discard or feed to pets/children after 5 minutes). From laying the charcoal to being ready to cook, about 15 minutes.

I saw an official brulee torch in John Lewis the other day. It was a standard plumbing torch painted white with some name on the side something like "HeatChef" or suchlike. Cost twice as much too, but I suppose would pacify someone too scared to use a Taymar.
Christian.
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Christian McArdle wrote:

I have to agree, I have a Rothenburger Sure Fire. This is a nice tool and take Propane or MAPP gas. I reckon on it not owing me much now so if it dies (the ignition is getting a bit unreliable) I'd be very happy to get a Sure Fire II which has a knob allowing you to turn the heat down. Which would be useful for soldering 15mm and smaller fittings. It was one of the best 50 quid I ever spent on any tool.
--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at www.diyfaq.org.uk
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My Bernzomatic has a handle, regulator knob and trigger ignition and only cost about 30 quid. Doesn't take MAPP though, at least not to my knowledge. I'm told it even works fine for 28mm, although I've only done 22mm and 15mm myself. I don't turn it down for 15mm, though. I prefer just to do a joint in a couple of seconds and limit the heating time.
Christian.
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