Flooring grade chipboard normally has a 'printed' side and a 'plain' side. Last I used was from Wickes & it was 'printed' side up.
If you are still worried about the T&G short joint not being directly over a joist, stick a few noggins in across the middle.
Hasn't anyone wondered WHY they machine it with T&G on the short edges? If it was intended that the short edges were going to be over joists they might as well leave them square & save the machining costs.
kitchen
continuous
Certainly not damp - dry as a bone with very good underfloor ventilation and it is flooring grade chipboard.
AWEM
as are many peoples.
Why would I want to do that? And how does the fact that many not that well laid floors are doing fine change anything? Think you may want to think this one thru a bit more.
NT
There is no right way up, just glue the edges - lay a row at a time - and whack them together HARD with a bit of scrap in the grooves/tongues to avoid damaging the edges with the mallet, then screw em down to the joists.Just make sure the LONG edges - which for a continuous 'weak spot' are laid ACROSS the joists. Put noggins at the room edges to avoid skirting flap too.
I guess you could lay em herringbone style to avoid long seams, but I never saw it done.
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