Lath & plaster kitchen

Opinions are sought on the best method of affixing kitchen wall cupboards to lath & plaster walls, please chaps. Some manner of rail screwed to the wall first?

Si

Reply to
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot
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& plasterwalls, please chaps. Some manner of rail screwed to the wall

I am sure this has been covered many times, but I can't find many threads on Google.

I think the most sensible suggestion in the past, has been to remove a horizontal strip (or strips) of plaster and fix battens to the studs, then attach the cupboards to the battens.

Reply to
zikkimalambo

It's your only option as the loads have to be taken by the studs. Problem is if you simply slap up a length of wood, the cupboards won't lie flush to the wall.

What I did was to insert a strip of steel for the top fixings. Mark where you want the cupboards to go then offer up a strip of fairly thick steel -

1/8th x 1" or so long enough to go to the studs either side of the outside edge of the cupboards. Position that accurately and level and mark round it. Then with a sharp knife etc carefully cut all the way round and remove the plaster down to the laths - it will then sit below the surface of the surrounding plaster. Screw to the studs then screw the cupboards to the steel using self tapping screws. The holes for the self tappers will need to be the correct size and some force needed to insert the screws the first time - it may be easier to mark the holes remove the strip and do this on a workbench. Another way would be to use nuts and bolts and glue the nuts to the back of the steel with superglue - or even solder them if you have a blowlamp. Or even used butterfly bolts. Then make good the parts that show to the sides of the cupboards.

You could do the same with wood, but IMHO it will be marginal using woodscrews into that unless you also remove the laths to get a fairly thick piece in place - and that can cause damage to the wall if it's in poor condition.

You need really solid fixings for wall cupboards as they tend to be heavily loaded with crockery etc. A surface mount batten running along underneath to add support is no bad thing as well.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Rip it out and put up MDF instead,. No you have a flat, stable paintable surface on which to begin.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

  1. horiz battens attached to the uprights
  2. Sheet ply on the wall fixed to the uprights
  3. If ther eis anything solid behind the L&P, screw straight through to that, if necessary after driling a hole and injecting filler.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Thanks chaps.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot

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