Laser levels How to?

Given that the tripods supplied with these cheap laser levels probably only extend to about 1500mm/5ft how does one use them to level anything higher tham that or am I missing something/thick ?

Paul Mc Cann

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Paul Mc Cann
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In message , Paul Mc Cann writes

You could use a stick/staff for example if you want to transfer a mark from one side of a room to the other.

Hold the end of the staff (this could be a bit of batten) on the mark and mark where the laser shines.

Next go to the other side of the room hold the staff roughly where you think it should be, then line up the laser dot with your mark on the staff and mark the top of the staff.

You have to level the tripod first of course.

Hope this helps

Reply to
Danny Burns

Paul, To do something higher use a yard rule (or metre rule IF you must !) and align the spot on the appropriate offset. Same applies when going lower.

Andrew Mawson

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Put the tripod on a table or something similar

PoP

Reply to
PoP

I must be thick or something - I honestly hadn't thought of doing that!

Mind you, I'll trot out the excuse that I only recently (a matter of weeks ago) got and used a laser level for the first time - one of those cheapo jobs which looks like a spirit level on a stick. So pleased with it I went back for the next job and got a rotating job. Well pleased.

PoP

Reply to
PoP

Or upside down from the ceiling? :o)

dg

Reply to
dg

The important thing to remember is that the laser gives you a level datum, form which you can measure up or down.

dg

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dg

I've looked at these myself - but not yet bought one. Am still wondering about whether to speak nicely to Father Christmas!

I had rather hoped that when, for example, hanging border round a room, you could set the thing rotating and line the border up with the spot as it whizzes past without requiring any pencil marks. Is this being too optimistic?

It seems to me that if you have to make one set of marks with the level and then transfer them to a different altitude with a yard-stick, you might as well have just gone round the room with an ordinary spirit level. Comments on a postcard please . .

[I suppose that with a rotating laser, the two ends of the line are guaranteed to meet - but the whole thing still may not be exactly horizontal because of tolerances in the kit]
Reply to
Set Square

A border at the ceiling needs to follow the ceiling rather than real true level...

Might be useful for a dado rail or border but I really think you still set it up so the offset from floor was equal rather that true level.

I do like the point about the ends meeting up though when aligned with a rotating laser. I almost bought the Focus one a month or so back but was suffering cash flow problems (to much flow, not enough cash) so didn't. Last couple of times I've been in they haven't had any in stock.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

It actually gives you a line, which may (or more usually) may not be level. A few weeks ago I was measuring across a large room using the high tech measure (hose pipe with bits of clear tube stuck in either end and filled with water) when a "consultant" came in (his card said "BA (design for buildins)" (sic) Luton" - which I think is the modern day version of "BSc (Calcutta) (failed)" for those that remember the proper version of "1066 and all that" before it was sanitised)).

He wore a shiny grey suit and white socks with black plastic shoes.

Producing his laser level and balancing it on a remarkably shoddy tripod he proceeded to mark off "levels" which were a good 5" out from my water level.

When questioned he questioned whether or not my hosepipe had a calibration certificate and if not how did I know it was accurate. When asked if he knew about gravity he wanted to know if they were Investors in People certified (which his organisation apparently was) and if not his levels were more level than gravities, no matter who they were, because his were certified.

For his next trick he has to make water flow uphill, but I haven't mentioned that to him yet.

Reply to
Peter Parry

The cheapo one i have has two end attachments, one to shoot a dot and one for a line (which is perfect if you dont want pencil marks)

regards Tim

Reply to
Tim

Possibly, not having one and I forgot to mention this in my other post. Shadows could make for some interesting contortions so as not to block the laser.

Those that have these rotating jobbies, is this a problem in practice?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Suited idiot aside, I've had a hose level be off... I'd checked it against itself, and it was off by half an inch. Turned out I'd missed a bubble in the non-transparent bit.

If I had to use one frequently and wanted a "permanent" one rather than putting one together from bits when I wanted one, I'd use clear tubing throughout. (Then algae would probably grow in it...)

Thomas Prufer

Reply to
Thomas Prufer

But the line is presumably only useful if you can get it at working level? If, for example you want to stick some border on a wall a little way down from the ceiling at (say) 2.1 metres but the tripod only allows you to use the level at up to 1.5 meters, you still have to use a 0.6 metre stick to transfer the level - which seems a lot less convenient. Am I missing something?

Reply to
Set Square

Many thanks for all the suggestions.

As I rather suspected its back to paper and string.

Using a stick or staff to transfer the datum to a point higher up is a possible error inducing step.

Having then to join two such transferred marks allows more errors to creep in.

Methinks I'll stick with a 1200mm spirit level,string level or water in transparent hose. ( As someone said, they once had an error in using a water level device. I had a similiar problem which I didn't spot in time. I assumed I made an error in setting the two level markss but I suspect his suggestion that a bubble was trapped in the pipe was the most likely. I'll be more confident trying that method the next time. I suppose a little food coloring in the water would allow any potential bubble trouble makers be spotted .

Paul Mc Cann

Reply to
Paul Mc Cann

In most cases, you should avoid trying to level anything decorative across a wall - as slight deviations in floor and ceiling lines, plus possibly some other distractions such as different sized window openings, or large furniture items will lead to your level line appearing out of level compared with nearby reference lines.

Fixing the border parallel is a better option.

dg

Reply to
dg

All levelling operations can induce errors. You are more likely to introduce a considerable error in setting up the level, than you ever would by transferring a mark with a staff

For the majority of domestic or other non structural purposes, these normal errors can be ignored

dg

Reply to
dg

Yep, the brain makes rooms "square" no matter how distorted they are in reality. See the many "tricks of the eye" that exploit this.

Fix it so it looks right not actually is right. I *must* remember to follow this rule more rigidly myself. Says him with a couple of CUs that look on the slant when viewed from a distance through a (correct) doorway but are "correct" relative to the immediatly adjacent walls/ceiling.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

I can't agree. The possibility of not getting the staff vertical ( which probably necessitates using a plumb line) is the first opportunity for errors to creep in . And this has to be repeated for each positioning mark

Then one is left trying to transfer a mark up to and beyond arms reach. Step ladders may have to be used.

The staff may have to be affixed to the wall with accuracy.

Two sightings would have to be made for every mark

Sod law will dictate that there will be many times when the use of the staff would be obstructed by existing fittings.

All in all, I think if the laser level could be made do the job, I'm going to get a damn sight more accuracy with that than faffing about with sticks.

I'm well able to set up a level having used dumpy levels many years ago. Anyway its only a matter of centreing a bubble, not exactly rocket science.

Big assumptions you are making there. Who said we were restricting ourselves to domestic or even non structural purposes.

The reason I was toying with getting a laser level is the regular requirement we have to fix runs of storage cupboards at varying heights. The runs can be up to 60 feet long and include circumnavigating alcoves etc.

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Paul Mc Cann

Reply to
Paul Mc Cann

I'm a great believer in setting apparent horizontals especially in domestic situations but this isn'y always possible. There are times when the object has to be level to function correctly

Paul Mc Cann

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Paul Mc Cann

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