Laminate laying question?

[gspray2]

Hi All , Im wanting to lay laminate in my hallway but have a question regardinghow I lay thelaminate at the bottom of the stairs which I want to remain carperted.

Do i lay the laminate up against the carpert as tight as possible and then finish off with beading to cover the join ?

Also what is the best way to lay the planks would it be 90% to the door so the planks would be at a right angle to the door .

Also can anyone suggest a good website where I can look up the best way to lay laminate.

Many thanks in advance for any help

Glenn

[The Medway Handyman]

You need an expansion gap on both edges, so not too tight. Cover with beading.

Do you mean along the length of the hall of across the width? It will probably be easier & look better if you run the boards down the length. However, this could leave an awkward gap along one edge. If so, lay them across the width.

[A.Lee]

Haaaaaaa. That is one of my hates with laminate. The horrible edging strip/beading all around the room. Awful stuff. I use my biscuit jointer, and cut 8mm or so off the bottom of the skirting, then go round the door frames with the multi tool to allow the laminate to go underneath the door frame and skirting. Gives a FAR neater look. How much gap do you leave? The packets say 10mm all round. I cannot see even half that expansion in a domestic house, there is little variation in temperature and humidity throughout the year, so in theory, there should be little expansion of the laminate. I've been using Howdens tiled laminate for the last 2 floors I did, it is really good, comes in 35cm ish squares, realy easy to go down, very secure as well. i'll be using it all the time in future, £4 a sq. M. more than B+Q tiled laminate, but better quality I think, as well as far easier to cut/lay - no 4 tiles sheets to cut. Alan.

[Harry Bloomfield]

The Medway Handyman brought next idea :

In which case, just start from the centre, rather than a side and work the boards out so you need to cut an almost equal edge of both sides along the full length of the hall.

[John]

is a case of having to do it.

Have you considered changing the skirting board? If so, you can fit new after laying the floor and it makes a far neater job. You may like the MDF skirtings which compliment the floor.

[John]

I agree with you on the finished look, but how do you get the last row down and under the skirtings and architrives without removing them? The final gap to fill will be smaller than the cut laminate in order for it to go under the skirtings etc.

John

[The Medway Handyman]

Many makes of laminate only 'click' in properly from one side.

[The Medway Handyman]

True enough, but the punters don't seem to mind it.

Doesn't that add a lot of labour cost to the job?

I leave around 6mm. The beading sold for laminate won't cover a 10mm gap IME.

Interesting. I'll check that out.

[S Viemeister]

Yes - but if you do the layout first, you can then start at one side and finish on the other, knowing in advance that the pattern is balanced. That's what I've always done, whether with laminate or tiles.

[John]

Yes - but - you can still set the centre line as a datum.

[Harry Bloomfield]

Nothing I suggested prevents you still installing, once it is cut, from that one side.

[gspray2]

many thanks everyone for all your help cheers glenn

[A.Lee]

Generally, the gap at the bottom of the skirting is wider than at the top of the skirting, so more movement there, so easy to slip a piece in, with half of the lip cut off, then glue it in if need be, or use a little force, and it is possible to get the joint right.. I've done maybe 12 in the last year, and not had any problems. Alan.

[The Medway Handyman]

I see what you mean now.