Kitchen Worktop - sticky surface

Folks,
I have a kitchen worktop with what was good quality laminate 10-12 years ago (can't recall the 'make' now).
The problem is that some of the surface has gone 'sticky' - and yes it does get wiped clean.
It's only in patches - mainly around thehob area (gas).
The surface is still hard and has not discoloured or chipped at all, its just that it feels sticky and not the normal smooth 'polished' finish which there is elsewhere.
Any ideas why this should have happened, and is there anything I can do to get it back to good condition. It would be a nightmare of a job to have to replace the worktop now.
Many thanks
Graham
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Try wiping it with lemon juice and a cloth.
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graham wrote:

if its not grease or whatever from cooking maybe the hob heat has softened the laminate surface ...
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graham wrote:

Try a leetle bit of Mr Muscle oven cleaner on it.
After trying it on a hidden bit first.
Fat vapour condenses and eventually dries out to a sort of linseed oil like rubbery muck around hobs. Strong alkali will shift it, but *may* attack the laminate, so get it on, leave a few minutes and get it off.

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There is a surface cleaner called "Bar Keepers Friend" - available from Robert Dyas and some supermarkets. I would be amazed if that doesn't do the trick
Angela
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Ooh! Good!
A caustic soda thread.
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Most likely is a grease deposit as suggested, try contact adhesive remover, it is a powerful degreaser & should not effect the top.
Oven cleaner may strip off the colour.
Do not use abrasives
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kitchenman wrote:

It may affect the glue its put on with tho. Depending.

No, but it can chemically alter the top layer. Most lamniates don't have surface colour - there is a substrate of smething like phenolic resin and paper, then a color layers, and on top a clear layer of abrasion resistive material. All of which are _resonably_ solvent and dirt proof, and definitely water proof.
HOWEVER I used to have a Formica laminated top on a workbench years ahgo. Cellulose thinners actually softened the top layer, and allowed me to wipe it, and the pigment underneath, off.
Or was it? Might have been nitromethane that did that...
Anyway, hydrocarbon solvents and strong alkali will both lift heavy fat. The trouble with hydrocarbons is that they don't change what is there - just dissolve it, and when they evaporate, its still there.
The key to dgreasing with solvents os to splp them on then use a detergent to make the whole shebang water-soluble. But alkali turns the fats into detergents anyway, more or less.
The trick is to use just enough to attack the grease, not anything else.Many plastics ARE chemically altered by alkali. Many are not. Only way is to test and try.
BTW acids like vinegar to bugger all to grease. They are useful tho to neutralise alkaline residues after you have used the caustic :-)
Mr Muscle oven cleaner is powerful Mooti. It appears to be spray on caustic foam. I use it on all my vitreous enamel pans when burned on fat builds up, and the aga top. You need a good extracor fan as well tho.

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Cumulative build up of polymerised fats/oils?
My first plan of attack would be a strongish solution made up with washing soda crystals.
50p a bag in supermarkets.
An unbelievably effective cleaning product.
cheers Richard -- Richard Sampson
email me at richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk
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replying to graham, ChrisC wrote:

I have the same problem and caustic soda sorted it out a treat.
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On Thu, 29 Oct 2015 17:44:02 +0000, ChrisC

Somebody already suggested that 13 years ago shortly after the OP was posted!
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