The extension kitchen fitting proceeds apace and I am now pondering lamps to go under the cupboards and illuminate the worktops.
16 years ago, I used 8 Watt miniature fluorescents and I see they are still available.For a lot more money I can get LED strips with an unspecified light output.
What do others use?
I bought something similar to these from TLC:
As an experiment, I have put up a 3.8W LED strip (1100mm) under one cupboard - cost around £11. Very pleasant though, maybe, not as bright as a tube? Thinking about which way to go for the whole lot now - but
100% will be LED of some sort.In message , Tim Lamb writes
I wanted to go for LED strips as they would provide even lighting but SWMBO has insisted that (LED) spots provide a varied more homely look.
Of course, I know she is right. ;-)
I'm finding the tubes for these seem to not last very long recently. They just seem to go dim for no apparent reason after a while. Brian
A full length fluorescent? Why use several when one is cheaper?
If you look up the lifetime and output of your tubes you've got a base for comparison. Fluorescent is usually a good bit better than LED for unfocussed light, but the miniatures are at the low end of fl efficacy.
A single 5' T8 tube on a dimming ballast (per run of cupboard) would get you much better energy efficiency and run cost, much more choice re tube types, and wide ranging light output.
NT
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
A discontinuous run of cupboards. The main kitchen has 5. Also a slight nervousness about safety. The small ones tuck away neatly and not somewhere the food processor etc. is likely to reach.
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This is a modest galley kitchen with only 3 wall hung cupboards. There is an overhead 4' fluorescent. My observation is that kitchen lady uses these task lights sparingly so efficiency is not a huge consideration. No tubes have needed replacement since 1995:-)
You need a "his" and "hers" switch, one for mood lighting, and the other for functional lighting when you actually want to use the kitchen for food preparation, seriously. This is pretty much what I always do for kitchen lighting.
Switch the task lighting (under cupboard) separately from the main room lighting, although you don't want a scheme which requires running around the room flicking 6 different switches, just to turn off all the lights.
What we have found is that the LED, being so frugal, gets used as "walk through the room or make a cup of tea" lighting and is used a lot. We only use the others when switch is more convenient or more light is required.
One fl tube has less points where its live than several tubes, requires a f= raction the number of replacement tubes over time, and fits the same under = cupboard spaces small tubes do. It costs less to fit, less in electricity a= nd less in tubes. From your feedback I wonder if you've thought through how= a 1 tube system works.
Most kitchens have 1, 2 or 3 cupboard runs. If your 5 units are all spaced = apart then of course its not an option.
NT
I'd support what the previous poster says about using dimmable electronic ballasts - very appropriate for kitchen lighting at different times.
Cheapest option is probably to buy whatever fitting you want, and replace the ballast - rather than pay a price premium for it as original equipment.
On that note - if you're rewiring your kitchen - take both switched and unswitched L's to the fittings, and a neutral to the switch backboxes, for maximum future flexibility.
In message , snipped-for-privacy@care2.com writes
The small tube fittings are shrouded so electrical safety not really an issue. I was thinking more about glass shards in food and the consequent abuse that would come my way:-)
3 Isolated cupboards only.I was rather hoping someone would have recent experience of LED sets intended for this purpose.
Oh! I didn't do the wiring and the electrician has looped the 3 outlets back to a single wall switch.
In message , Brian Gaff writes
I'm still using the originals!
How can you tell they are dim or is this any housewife's plea for more light?
The response so far is not exactly a ringing endorsement of LED technology. I may have a look at the B+Q lighting display on my way to Screwfix for the fluorescents.
Tubes are actually quite strong - and would normally be protected by a plinth of some sort anyway - unless you want them shining in your eyes.
So three tubes - they come in various lengths.
Ah. You actually want to use those excuses for lights?
Screwfix are only likely to have the most basic of units. Florries are available in a variety of colour temperatures (from a specialist) so you don't have to put up with white or warm white. Decent ballasts will also repay the investment with long life and higher efficiency.
I've been very pleased with the LEDs that I have installed so far. These are mostly 3W units which are roughly equivalent to 20-30W incandescents. Unlike the 12W CFLs that they replaced, the LEDs really do give a decent light output.
The only problem so far has been replacing 12V halogens with LED. The transformers/SMPSUs can't cope with a load as low as 15W, so to make it all work properly I have had to use a ratio of 3xLED to 2xhalogen. At least this reduces consumption from 150W to 70W which is worthwhile. When I get a round tuit I will replace the transformers, or re-wire to use 1x transformer for 20x fittings which will get us back to the "comfort zone" for the transformer.
I haver dimers and I want a striplight that doesnt melt itself. Currently 9" incandescent and its on the third (dead) fitting now. What options are there - its mood lighting in an alcove stuffed with alcoholic refreshments :-)
I wasn't aware the fluorescents COULD be dimmed..
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