Kitchen sockets: stylish new design

[Bert Coules]

I'd be interested to know if anyone has used these rather stylish electrical sockets:

are from TLC but Screwfix now carry a similar range. It's not at all clear from the illustrations just how they are mounted; presumably the fixings are concealed inside the boxes, but how are they accessed?

Many thanks.

Bert

[Andy Burns]

Looks to me that the outer rim would "pop" off, leaving the circular part raised, and the screws to the sides of that?

Brushed chrome finish it says? Crushed coal more like!

[Bert Coules]

Andy,

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I wondered about that. It does seem the likeliest solution.

For the actual socket bit, you mean? I rather like that - a pleasant change from the usual white. It's hard to judge the outer housing (which presumably is the brushed chrome bit - I wonder what they brush it with?) from the pictures.

I think I'm going to give these a try in my new kitchen. I hate chasing out for sunken wall-boxes, and especially trying to get two or three to line up neatly next to each other.

Bert

[Andy Burns]

I didn't say they were bad.

FX: penny dropping

Ahh, just had another look, I think I see now! The 30° angled section is _part_of_ the socket, I was thinking they were just mounted on that for display, and you'd have to fit something similar yourself ...

[Bert Coules]

Andy,

I understand your confusion. No, the brushed chrome wedge-shaped mount is part and parcel of the whole thing. If you choose the worktop/wall angle as the place to put them (as opposed to the underside-of-the-wall-unit/wall angle) then clearly they'll take up some of the worktop space, but I'm inclined to think that's a small price to pay for neatness and convenience.

Bert

[dms1.go-plus.net]

I would be very wary of these sockets. The doubles are un-switched plus the single switched are in my opinion expensive.

I tried one of these in a customers kitchen who wanted a lot of sockets and not see them, well they are not all that well hidden plus you have a flex going ALL the way UP to under the cupboard.

You are much better off mounting a socket at the height prescribed in the current IEE regulations and I am not too sure if these are to British Standards either.

Beware of doing DIY from 1st Jan Nest year unless you consult building control and have it tested you will be breaking the law and could be fined a hefty sum check out

and click on part P

these are from TLC but Screwfix now carry a similar range. It's not at > all

[Bert Coules]

John,

Thanks for the reply.

I don't see the lack of switches as any sort of drawback. And the range doesn't include any single switched sockets: what looks like one is, in fact, a single unswitched socket and a quite separate switch in the same housing. An unusual arrangement, I agree. As to expense, well, something is worth what someone is willing to pay for it.

I was thinking of mounting them in the alternative position, on the worktop.

I really don't see why.

Wouldn't that mean they were being sold illegally? From a supplier with the reputation on TLC, isn't that a little surprising?

I'm aware of this impending legislation, consider it ridiculous and intrusive, and have no intention of allowing it to stop me doing my own wiring in my own home.

Bert

[IMM]

What height is that?

[Adrian Berry]

these are from TLC but Screwfix now carry a similar range. It's not at > all

I have fitted these and they are incredibly badly designed.

There are no useful instructions in the packaging.

The sockets are screwed to the metal wedge; the fixings are tabs on the inside of the wedge. Each socket is individually wired.

Thus, to fit a double socket in a ring final circuit, you need to remove the socket inserts, mount the "wedge" (it wobbles!), pull the ring circuit feeds through the holes where the sockets fit, wire each socket insert and then another cable to wire between the two sockets. Clearly the metal wedge should also be earthed and I cannot remember if a flylead was included or if I just crimped a ring to go under a fixing screw.

Once all the wires are in place, the whole lot has to be crammed untidily into the case so that the sockets can be screwed in place. It is well worth using a proper cable stripper as any nipped cores are likely to get fractured.

Having spent ages fitting the buggers, the client decided to replace them as they were "too flimsily mounted"

I would never advise using these fittings

They did look very pretty though!

HTH Adrian

[Lurch]

On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 20:32:20 -0000, "IMM" strung together this:

Well f*ck me, that's exactly the question I was about to ask.

[Bert Coules]

Adrian,

Thanks for the detailed reply.

They sound it. I'm grateful for advice based on your actually having worked with them. Did you use the ones from TLC, or a similar product from another source? I know I've seen a very slightly different design somewhere - I thought it was from Screwfix but I can't find them on their website, so I suppose it must have been another supplier.

I've ordered a sample double socket from TLC to have a look at. If they're as dodgy as you say I'll probably give the whole idea a miss. A pity though - they really do seem like the most stylish alternative to sinking those damned galvanised boxes into the wall. The only other non-sinking method I can think of is to use surface-mounted pattress boxes: terribly ugly and intrusive.

Thanks again.

Bert

[IMM]

-

The Screwfix or TLC versions?

[IMM]

They do look good from the picture. I think it is worth the fiddling to prevent the wall being butchered out. The cable can go in the cable void behind the cupboard. Surely they can be secured well, even if it means drilling a few holes behind the units here and there.

[IMM]

-

That sounds like wiring any socket.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Get an rotary hammer (SDS with rotation stop) and chasing out boxes becomes pretty easy. Think they start at about 30 quid these days.

FWIW, I think those angled sockets look awful. Decent SS types set squarely and evenly in tiles look the bizz.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Be easier - and neater - to make a fillet piece out of whatever the units are and run it the length of the cupboards. Then simply cut in normal boxes for normal sockets. If you really can only butcher a wall when fitting boxes. Perhaps you need a decent SDS rotary stop drill rather than the rubbish you keep recommending here?

[Andrew Gabriel]

I've saw them on the continent some time before I saw them over here. They were originally designed for Shuko and the French/Belgium sockets, hence the 13A socket in a round cutout. I would want to try one out for quality before buying a kitchen full of them.

There are lights in the same design, and they are a really bad idea. The light reflects off everything on the worktop straight into your eyes.

IEE regs doesn't have any height prescribed, but 110cm from floor to bottom of socket is common and works with typical kitchen units. Remember to allow for floor thickness if flooring isn't yet fitted.

[Adrian Berry]

They were from TLC (Merton)

[Bert Coules]

Dave,

Thanks for the reply.

I have one, and have also experimented with those square-chisel box-cutters. Depending on the state of the walls (extremely variable in my place) I can usually make the edges of the cut-out quite neat; but to create a flat, even back to the hole, at the correct depth, almost invariably escapes me.

Plus, I hate the mess.

Bert

[Bert Coules]

Andrew,

Thanks for the reply.

I've now ordered one from TLC to have a look at. I wish I could remember where else I've seen them; I was sure it was Screwfix but I can't find them on their website. If anyone has any ideas, I'd be grateful for them.

Bert