Kitchen Carcase Clearances

[TheScullster]

Hi all

Looking at a kitchen layout and I have 2 runs of base units which run the full length of adjoining (perpendicular) internal walls. So it's fairly important that the selected units "fit" each internal length. But how tight should this fit be? So far I've only measured the wall dimensions at worktop height, but if this is accurate, then I have 16mm clearance on a 5m run and 26mm clearance on a

3.6m run. I'm thinking that the 5m run is probably OK, as the only appliance is an integral dish washer which will fit into a 600 carcase anyway. The rest is just fitting the cabinets, a hob and extractor. On the 3.6m run though I will have two under-counter appliances, a washing machine and a tumble dryer. I am concerned as to whether 26mm will give enough clearance to allow these two big lumps to be insalled (and subsequently removed if necessary).

Any thoughts please?

TIA

Phil

[Chris J Dixon]

Aside from the appliance question, there is another issue which may arise. Whenever two runs meet, it is usually necessary to fit filler pieces, so that the drawers or doors of adjacent units aren't fouled by handles. This may be more than you have allowed.

Chris

[Cicero]

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Many washing machines can vibrate and go 'walkabout' so unless you you can ensure that yours stays where placed you might need considerably more clearance than 26mm to prevent it going berserk and wiping out neighbouring units.

Cic.

[mike]

Yeah, I was caught out by that and ended up taking units back to swap. It accounted for 55mm on the straight run. And the run that goes into the corner needed a 125mm offset from the wall.

If that makes no sense, take a look at this scan from the instructions that come with Wickes' carcasses:

[stuart noble]

In which case a smaller gap would presumably be better. No WM should be that unruly I'm currently working on my own 3m run where I have 5mm clearance. I have every confidence it will all fit providing each component is sitting squarely. If not, a layer of plaster may have to go at one end.

[Charles Fearnley]

My recent kitchen refit (u shaped) was tight to the point that at one point I was considering de-plastering walls too. In the end I gained some space at the corners by reducing the depth of one run of cabinets by 20mm at the back - there's usually a void for services at the back of base units where this can be done. It means that the modified run has a slightly increased worktop overhang, but in practice it doesn't show, and may be just enought to solve a problem.

Charles F

[Roger R]

Believe it or not I once came home and found my Hoover brand washing machine had danced its way right out of the row to the centre of the kitchen due to an ineffective out of balance spin sensor, restrained only by the hoses which fortunately had not come adrift.

Roger R

[TheScullster]

"mike" wrote

Yeah, I was caught out by that and ended up taking units back to swap. It accounted for 55mm on the straight run. And the run that goes into the corner needed a 125mm offset from the wall.

If that makes no sense, take a look at this scan from the instructions that come with Wickes' carcasses:

Thanks guys I will check on this, but I am using corner units at each return, so hopefully this will not be an issue. I am currently looking at Wren kitchens for the planning and their "corner" units only have a 62mm return. Presumably this accommodates the filler piece only, so that you can bang any base unit straight up to it.

Phil