Well, I look after it myself. ;-) It's a late SD1 I've had from near new - and despite never being garaged is near enough rust free. They'd found wax by that time. ;-)
It's not my daily driver now, but kept, because of apart being fun to drive, is as big as many estate cars when the rear seats folded down, etc, so useful for collecting DIY materials. My main car, a BMW, is useless in this respect.
Mine was near twice that price from Vehicle Wiring Products. Where did yours come from?
In article , Dave Plowman (News) writes
Ken Godwin sales, he does bits for mobile radio installers but we don't use him anymore, we contract that out...
Ah - but that's a crimp for standard red blue and yellow terminals that you'll find in any toolshop or electrical wholesaler.
Mine is the PR3 one on this page
It's for non insulated terminals.
In article , Dave Plowman (News) writes
Yes thats the one we used to use before we used the other type.....
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Sorry to say it, but pre-insulated terminals on a car look like a bodge. And in fact are. They might be ok for very low current use, but in fact aren't actually correctly designed for the common car cable sizes. IMHO.
And then they look just plain wrong, as they never appeared on maker's looms. Of course this doesn't matter for the aftermarket bodge in an alarm, etc, trade. ;-)
Using the correct non insulated Lucar connectors with separate covers and this crimping tool I get results I defy you to tell from the OEM wiring.
Oh - and they work rather better.
You'll often find a pre-insulated red connector will pull off 32/0.20mm rather easily - since that connector is meant for 1.5mm wiring. And
32/0.20 is nearer 1mm.A properly crimped non insulated type will damage the wire if pulled off.
I use 32/02 but double the strands over to give 2mm and use a blue crimp and ratchet crimper. A blade/receptacle connection using this method will pull apart way before the crimp can be pulled off the wire.
I'd agree that the uninsulated crimps are better, lack of round tuits is holding me back here...
cheers, Pete.
In article , Dave Plowman (News) writes
What do they use on modern motahs, cant say I've ever had to sod about with the wiring on my Audi to notice....
Should hope not, as a lot of wiring in that instance is floating to some extent..
Really, just how?..
Don't have that problem..
So will these buggers. They almost do a cold weld and in umpteen years we've never had a failure yet. Drop me your snail mail addy and I'll send you a few examples!..
Yes - it's slightly better, but of course blue is really meant for 2.5mm.
It's simply I've done lots of this sort of thing and found out it was the best option. For one offs, soldering a standard lucar connector after crimping the conductor part with pliers, then letting it cool, and then crimping the insulation gripping part is probably the best DIY cost effective route, but then soldering in situ can be a PITA.
Nor on my E60. But we're talking older or more basic cars where aftermarket accessories may be fitted?
Try it some time. And I've often seen 'pro' installations with bare wire sticking out beyond the insulation. Which you'd have to be very clumsy to do with the correct connector and sleeve.
You won't get a cold weld with RBY pre-insulated types on car wiring. Not one standard car wire size is close enough for that.
I'm not denying they might work well enough. For a while. ;-)
In article , Dave Plowman (News) writes
.....Whatever.....
I have previously been an advocate of crimping mains cables, both solid and stranded, provided the correct tool is used. Now I need to add to that.
Do NOT trust the insulated crimps from unknown manufacturers, as supplied by many otherwise excellent electrical wholesalers until you have taken one from the pack, and snipped off the plastic to see that it is adequate (preferably after purchase ). I found some today that had an excessive amount of the metal in the middle section removed, by my guesstimation, down to maybe 2.0 sq mm, or maybe less, and very soft squishy copper at that. Being that these crimps are rated for 12 AWG wire which is around 3.06 sq mm CSA, I consider this a dangerous defect.
Fortunately I was warned by the fact that my Amp crimp tool just crimped them as if they were mere plastic, indeed, one broke in the middle, with the plastic holding the broken parts in place.
A severe potential fire risk there, that would not have been caused by the usual suspects with crimps [poor crimping] but by what I consider to be a manufacturing defect.
Suffice to say, strip connector got used instead, thank $DEITY I found it before energizing the 32 amp circuit they were on.
Hope this forewarns someone and saves someone losing everything.
If you're a bit bored/sad ;) it's not too hard to cut through a crimp with a junior hacksaw and sand the cut surface down with wet&dry to see how well it's crimped. If there is no air space between cable strand(s) and crimp it's a good sign.
cheers, Pete.
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