Joint between wooden floor & carpet

[Huge]

How could I finish/trim/cover a joint beween wooden flooring (likely some kind of laminate/solid - haven't decided yet) and carpetting?

[Frank Erskine]

If you don't mind the idea of a metal capping, the sheds do them for various combinations of surfaces - tile, carpet etc, if it's just 'doorway' width. If it's a wide span you'd probably have to have some sort of moulding made to suit.

[Steve Firth]

Aluminium extrusion made for the job, or take a suitable piece of wood and machine to the appropriate depth and profile, route a step on the back to accomodate carpet and laminate depths and fix into position.

[Andy Hall]

Using a router or equivalent in a table, mill an appropriate depth of material from the underside of the wooden floor board. The idea is for this to be able to accommodate the carpet going perhaps 2cm underneath the floorboard and at a suitable depth for the backing and pile.

Then on the top surface make any profile you like - e.g. chamfer, stop chamfer or rounded edge - also achievable on router table.

Alternatively or as well as the top surface profile, you could slope the board a little over a third or perhaps half of the width, thus reducing the step effect further.

This is a much better way to finish something like this than using wooden or metal strips.

[stuart noble]

Lunatic!

[clangers_snout]

All the DIY places have wooden strips that match their ranges of laminate floor for just this purpose. They're easy to fit, just a plastic strip glued/screwed onto the floor and then push the wood strip in to cover the join.

[Huge]

Excellent - thank you. And everyone else.

[Frank Erskine]

That does absolutely nothing to protect the edge of the wooden board, which is a prime issue here. Feathering the edge would make it even more vulnerable to damage.

At least a wooden strip can be easily replaced without disturbing either the floorboard or the carpet.

[Andy Hall]

Is this your way of announcing yourself? "Hello" is the normal way.

[Andy Hall]

Of course it does. The edge of the board is profiled.

If it were feathered to nothing or almost nothing that might be the case. I suggested the optional possibility of sloping the board slightly, which is not the same thing at all.

A floorboard is a lot more substantial than a strip, and in the highly unlikely event of it sustaining damage, could also be replaced.

Metal strips look horrible, and wooden ones present a trip hazard.

[Dave]

I have a similar problem that can't be fixed like that. In 1978 the house was built using threshold strip that are the same width as the modern metal ones. Where we have carpet coming to to a wooden floor, we can't use these, as they are not wide enough. Trying to find a local firm that can make something wide enough to span the problem.

Dave