Joining Worktops

[Chris Cowley]

I've never joined a kitchen worktop before. My nice shiny new worktop router jig arrived the other day and the box says that a 1600W router should be used.

Would I be a complete spaz to try cutting it with my cheap 900W 1/4" router from Wickes then? I hadn't really factored-in buying a big router as I hardly ever use the thing, so unless my 900W is likely to do a reasonable job, I may just have to give up on the jig idea and try to get someone in who knows what they're doing.

My 900W beastie has been fine for cutting decoritive effects into MDF, and I assumed a big lump of chipboard wouldn't present it with any problems.

[Grunff]

Yes.

Or borrow/hire a bigger router?

I'd be amazed if you could cut a worktop with that. Can you even get

1/4" bits that are long enough?

[Chris Cowley]

Oh. Bugger.

Always an option, I suppose. But given that it's probably 50/50 as to whether I muck the entire job up and have to buy new worktops anyway, getting someone in who does this on a daily basis is starting to sound like an attractive proposition. One of the worktops I'd be jointing has to fit-in snugly around a chimney breast too, and I'm pretty sure the corner in question is not going to be bang-on 90deg, so it's all starting to sound like a load of old hassle.

I also have one of those curved 90deg metal joining strips, but they look a bit pants if you ask me. I'd prefer a proper join.

Dunno, I haven't got as far as buying a suitable bit yet. I guess not, from what you've said!

Ta for the input, sounds like you may have saved me shelling out for a second set of worktops.

Anyone want to buy an unused worktop jig then!?

[Andy Hall]

Well...... I could be kind and say that this really isn't a good idea, but a 6.35mm router is not going to do this job.

- You would have problems in finding a long enough bit - I am not sure that they even exist - and if they do, the bit will chatter and has a high chance of breaking and exiting the work area at high velocity.

This is definitely a 12.7mm router job. While you can take small cuts with a smaller router, as mentioned, the depth will be an issue. The bit is likely to chatter and vibrate horribly.

There are really three choices.

- Go for a reasonable 12.7mm router. This really begins with something like the Freud at around £160. The cheap Chinese ones at DIY stores and Argos etc. for £80 or less, are not up to this type of work if you want a proper result. You will also need to buy a worktop cutting bit. Costs for a reasonable CMT or Freud one aout £20

Advantage is that you will have a nice router for other jobs.

- Rent the above

- Get somebody to do the job and return the jig for a refund.

Personally, I would and did buy the router.

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

900W a beastie? I wonder what you'd call a 2000W jobbie. :-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Andy Hall]

That's understating it. They're crap - and that's being kind.

Are you going to tile the sides of the chimney breast?

If so, you can get away with a few mm of out-of-square with the cutting of the worktop.

Return or Ebay?

[Chris Cowley]

Thanks, I will compare the cost of hiring one against the cost/availability of getting someone in but there's no point in me shelling out 160 quid for a 1/2" router as I would probably never use it again. I've used my 1/4" one about twice in the last 3 or 4 years (to make some rather spiffy-looking cupboards) and it is man enough for any of the routing jobs I'm ever likely to tackle other than worktops. And I'm not planning on installing another kitchen for at least 10 more years!

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Nah! you can make them with some perspex sheet. ;-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Andy Hall]

OK, so given all of this, getting a person to do it is likely to be the most cost effective.

[Grunff]

Worth mentioning that many hire shops do a 'worktop pack', with router, bits and jig. This can be a good approach for one-off users.

[Chris Cowley]

Might be worth me trying to remember that for next time. Although, in

10+ years time I don't doubt that one will need to be a registered member of a trade body to legally fit a kitchen worktop, and it will be subject to building control regulations.

[Chris Cowley]

I concur completely. I ordered it with the worktops as a special "get out of jail free" option, but I don't think I could bring myself to actually use it. SWMBO would probably tear me a new orifice, too.

I will be tiling the sides of the of the chimney breast (perpendicular to the wall) but not the front face. I think I could manage to do a fine job of this part to be honest, but if I'm going to get a member of the worktopisti in to do the join, then I will probably leave it for him to do. Not very in-keeping with the DIY ethos, I know, but sometimes you just have to know when to step back, I think!

I will probably try returning it, but if that fails then it can go in the garage or loft with all the other bits of stuff that I keep "just in case"...

[Chris Cowley]

You can if you have a "worktop router jig" jig (or you could presumably make one of those yourself too if you have a "worktop router jig jig" jig).

[Andy Hall]

Yebbut, will you pay attention to it any more then than now?

F*cking (mumble) jobsworths........

I suppose that (jag++)++ will be retired by then. The Lord be praised.

[Chris Cowley]

There won't be any choice - they will change the sealant colours and lock you up and throw away the key when you try to sell your house if you've used the new-coloured sealant without getting a completion cert.

[Antony]

Another option is to use your wimpy router, but not all the way through. Even with a 2000w router, I'm not convinced it's best practice to do it all in one cut. You could do it all with the router in about

10 passes going progressively deeper (if you can find a long enough 1/4" bit. Alternatively, you could do a shallow cut with the router (it's the laminate you want cut neatly) and then do the rest with a jigsaw. You could then tidy up the cut with either the router or a rasp, or whatever. The router would have a much easier time as it's only having to cut half the material, and the waste won't clog up and overheat the bit.

-Antony

[Grunff]

Is it just me, or does it seem like this decade will be remembered as the decade when we lost the freedom to do many things without permission?

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

I borrowed a trend one, then just stuck it over the perspex and replicated its cutouts. ;-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite

[Chris Cowley]

No, it's not just you. There seems to be a strange obsession amongst many people with trying to attain the utterly impossible goal of zero risk in all things.

It will have to get worse before it gets better, I fear. I just hope I am still around to witness the "gets better" part.

"More people injure themselves every year using claw-hammers than are injured by faulty electrical installations. Therefore I propose that the use of claw-hammers should be tightly regulated to minimise the risks to the public of damaging their thumbs."

I think that is the sort of level that we will ultimately have to stoop to before significant numbers of people start thinking, "actually, this is all getting a bit silly."

[The3rd Earl Of Derby]

Its usually a lump hammer(aptly named, dont you think) in my case. ;-)

-- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite