On an external decking project ... on a couple of places I need to join some 100 x 50 to some 150 x 50 along long lengths (effect making a
250 x 50)These are 3300 long ...in treated sawn softwood.
The dead load is downwards so will tend to keep pieces together, but need to stitch these together at a couple of places ... I could use a biscuit jointer - clamp and allow to set overnight. or I could use some 100 x 150 nail plates.
Anybody done this, wonder what is usual.
I'd leave a small gap between the lengths or water will get into the joint. Treated or not you don't want to create a nice enviroment for rot.
Doesn't need much of a gap, presumably the top side of these decking boards is grooved? Make the gap the same as the groove width and it'll not show or at least look deliberate. B-) Use treated timber spacers very few feet and nail plates on the underside. This also allows the two different bits of timber to move independantly of each other as well.
Dowels, as long as you can, every 150mm if possible and Cascamite. Clamp well till glue sets.
If the OP is joining the wood to get a 250x50 beam for the extra stiffness that will provide, then leaving a gap won't work. In particular "allowing the two different bits of timber to move independently of each other" is exactly what is *not* wanted.
Why? :-)
My description is perhaps not clear ... I do want to create in effect a 250 x 50 by joining 15 x 50 and 100 x50 over it's length. However it is to match spacing, the 150 on it's own can take the load.
Just think of the 100x50 as a packer on top.
Will be used 'on edge' as mentioned I could biscuit joint, or use nail plates on inside where they won't show.
main central cross support beam has 100 x 50 joists. I am putting a raised section of deck ... so step up of 150mm needed. So distance from main support beam to underside of upper level of joist is 250mm .... thought of running a perimeter of this so upper deck has good support at deck ends ... and also a packer on top of central 150 x50 again to match height and split unsupported length of joists in half ... that way I can use 100 x 50 joists.
Maybe this sketch helps
The overall plan (coming together) is also at that site ..
You are aware that decking more than 30cm from the ground requires planning permission?
Colin Bignell
Only if you tell anyone....
I've just had a petulant letter from a neighbour, which he sent to everybody in our road after somebody ratted him out to the planning department for a shed in his garden that was 80cm too high. Mind you, I suspect it was probably somebody living behind him, as you probably won't spot the shed from the road unless you have received a letter telling you it is there and know to look.
Colin Bignell
So build up some soil up into a bank, build the deck to no more than
30cm, remove some soil. They surely can't insist on PP if you want to take away a bit of soil, can they?On Saturday 11 May 2013 18:07 Nightjar wrote in uk.d-i-y:
20cm too high could be an honest error. 0.8m is a bit of a piss take.Anyway - what did the council do?
Sent round a planning officer, who also found out he had built a loft extension and was rebuilding his garage (about the only thing that was obvious from the road). He now has to apply for retrospective PP for the lot. I think it was the cost of that which annoyed him most.
Colin Bignell
I've had several discussion with the local planning bods over this.
Two questions I have; how big does a wooden step have to be, before it becomes a deck? Does a raised bed or planter count as 'ground'?
The only answer they can give is 'we would have to look at each case'.
Privately they think its a poorly thought out Guvmint policy, dumped on them to implement, with no clear guidelines or rules..
I'll nip round and tell all the neighbours to take theirs down :-)
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