I want to split a cooker cable to go three ways to hob, oven and microwave/grill. Have used 45A cable from the consumer unit but can only find 30A junction boxes which although can probably take the load would need some sort of messy daisy-chaining to handle all the thick wires.
Is there a tidier solution ?
Henley Block ?
On Sat, 24 Apr 2004 00:37:17 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "Chris Oates" strung together this:
Not a good idea. Try using an adaptable box with line taps inside. Personally I would run 2-3 radials in, or use cooker outlet plates but with 10mm cable it could be a bit tight getting two in one box. I would class any way of doing what you want a form of light/medium bodgery, unless you ran the seperate radials in.
Could you not loop the cable through the outlet for each appliance in turn?
Cooker outlet plates
as will cooker switches.
Moves the problem to the consumer unit where I don't have enough spare trips.
That was attempt one before asking here, where 'Bit tight' means physically impossible in our three normal dimensions.
The items are spread around the kitchen so will need a switch each. But I suppose this could work. I'll have a look.
45A DP switch has terminals large enough to get 10sq. mm into. Choose a 47mm back box (obviously).
I can't get three 10 wires into it (in, switched out and loop to next) using the switch without a 13A socket included. What am I doing wrong ?
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 20:18:48 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "G&M" strung together this:
Trying to get three 10mm wires into a cooker switch.
Which brings me back full circle. What can I get three (or even four) 10mm wires into ?
to get three 10mm wires into a cooker switch.
A Henley block - used for meter tails etc Nick
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 22:54:49 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "nick smith" strung together this:
Which brings me back full circle, not a good idea. Try using an adaptable box with line taps inside. Personally I would run 2-3 radials in, or use cooker outlet plates but with 10mm cable it could be a bit tight getting two in one box. I would class any way of doing what you want a form of light/medium bodgery, unless you ran the seperate radials in, which I now know you can't do so some sort of central distribution point as suggested above is about the only way you're going to do it. This thread is going round in circles without IMM, how novel!
Somebody else said not to but gave no reason. Where do you get these from ? None of the mail order places seem to have them.
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 23:13:43 +0100, in uk.d-i-y "G&M" strung together this:
A henley block is for meter tails, it is designed for use with double insulated single core cables. Sticking twin and earth into one is not recommended because of the singl insulated bits of wire between the outer T&E sheath and the connector on the henley block. Here are some at TLC,
I think before anyone can answer the OP's question, we need to know the rated wattage of the individual items.
It may be possible to run thinner cables to the oven and microwave (or even spur them off the kitchen ring).
The hob I can understand but what sort of oven or microwave require more than a normal 13A supply? When I had an electric oven it was only a few kw. Current combi microwave/oven/grill is plugged into a normal
13A outlet.MBQ
On 26 Apr 2004 07:51:20 -0700, in uk.d-i-y snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (MBQ) strung together this:
Few kilowatts = about 20A = more than 13A.
Hob has five elements - total 12 kW
Oven is Neff B1641, who don't seem to quote power
Microwave/grill is Neff B7740, again no power quoted.
What about the 60 amp j-box at tlc?
On 26 Apr 2004 13:37:19 -0700, in uk.d-i-y steve_ snipped-for-privacy@lycos.co.uk (steve) strung together this:
No chance, you won't get 3 or 4 10mm cables in that _tidily_.
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